
Book__ALL^ 



GopyrightN^. 



1^0 



COPYRIGHT DEPOStr 



practical 
Cotton Calculations 



A TREATISE RELATING TO 

COTTON YARN, CLOTH STRUCTURE, LOOM AND 

MISCELLANEOUS COTTON MILL 

CALCULATIONS 

; BY 

ERNEST WHITWORTH 

Formerly Principal of the Designing- and Cloth 

Aiialysis Department, New Bedford 

Textile School 



PRICP ONE DOLLAR , 



PUBLISHED BY 

RICHARD BOARDMAN 

FALL RIVER, MASS. 



THE LISRARY ^F 

eoNG^ess, 

Two Cows* ftasEivEft 

FEB. 25 1902 

0»PYHieMT ENTRY 

CLA38 «/ XXo. N». 

t ) U> t ^ 

COPY a 






Entefed according to Act of Corig-fess in the Veai' I90I, 
by 

ERNEST WHITWOKTH and RICHARD BOARDMAN, 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, 
Washington, D. C, 



^- 



1 



?c 



SHOVELTON CO., PRINTERS, FALL RIVER, MASS. 



PREFACE. 



There are several reasons why the author of 
this book has deemed its publication advisable. 

One reason has been the apparent want of a 
book dealing only with practical calculations. 
This has been borne in mind in the compilation 
of this book. 

The principal object has been to put into a 
convenient form for reference a text book of 
practical cotton yarn, cloth and general mill 
calculations. 

Being the only book on the market, so far as 
the author is aware, dealing onlj^ with practical 
cotton calculations, it is submitted to all persons, 
from student to superintendent, who have occa- 
sion to deal with cotton mill calculations. 

Most of the rules and methods explained in 
the following pages are deducted from data 
gathered from practical experience and have 
never been printed before. The remainder, 
with the exception of the yarn numbering and 
cloth production tables, are common property, 
and may be found in almost every book on 
textile calculations. These are principally 
length and weight calculations where take-up 
or contraction is not considered. 



Glossary of Technical Words and 
Terms. 



In the cotton manufacturing business, various 
words, forms and terms are used in different mills 
to indicate the same thing; for example, warp 
yarn is known by one or other of the terms yarn, 
thread, end, twist, etc. For this reason it has 
been deemed advisable to define the following 
list of the principal words and terms which 
will be used throughout this book. 

Yarn. The final product of combined fibres 
after leaving the spinning frame or mule. 

Ply Yarn. Two or more single yarns folded 
or twisted together. 

Cord Yarn. A heavy ply yarn. 

Cabled Yarn. Two or more ply 5^arns twisted 
together. 

Picks. Filling yarns. Each filling yarn laid 
at right angles between the warp yams is termed 
a pick. 

Sley, The number of ends per inch in the 
cloth, provided each dent in the reed in which it 
was made contained an equal number of ends. 

Pick. The number of picks per inch in the 
cloth, provided stop or check pegs are not used. 

Average Sley. The average number of ends 
per inch in the cloth when some dents contain 
more ends than others. 



b PRACTICAI, COTTON CAI^CULATIONS 

Average Pick. The average number of picks 
per incli in the cloth when check pegs are used. 

Count of Cloth. The sley and pick of a cloth. 

If a cloth is said to count 80X100 it means 
80 sley and 100 pick. The first number given 
always indicates the sley and the second number 
the pick. 

A cloth is said to be square when the sley and 
pick are equal. 

Average Count of Cloth. The average sley 
and average pick of a cloth. ^ 

When the average sley is different from the 
sley, or the average pick different from the pick, 
the sley and pick, and average sley and average 
pick are usually written together as follows: 

80 100 
110 124 

In some mills this means 80 sley X 100 pick 
for the ground of the cloth, and 110 sley X 124 
pick average, whereas in other mills the top line 
indicates the average and the lower the count of 
the base or ground of the cloth. The relative 
positions, above or below the line, of the ground 
and average count, are matters of choice. 

Counts or Numbers of Yarn. The relation- 
ship of length to weight in determining the size 
of yarn. Although the term "numbers" is 
used quite extensively the more universal term 
"Counts" will be given preference in this book. 

Sley Reed. A i eed that will produce a given 
sley in the cloth, provided two ends are drawn 
in each dent. 

Warp Pattern. One repeat of the arrange- 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS / 

inent of the different counts or different colors of 
the warp yarns. 

Filling Pattern. One repeat of the different 
counts or different colors of the filling yarns. 

Selvedges or Selvages. Extra ends on the 
sides of the warp, used to strengthen the edges 
of the cloth and aid in keeping it at a uniform 
width. 

Fabric or Cloth Warp and filling yarns 
combined and interlaced together. 

Multiplier. The number to multiply by. 

Product. The I'esult of a multiplication 
problem. 

Sum. The result of an addition problem. 

Dividend. The number to be divided. 

Divisor. The number to divide by. 

Quotient. The result of a division problem. 

Deduct. To subtract or take from. 

+ Plus or more, addition sign. 

X Multiplied by sign. 

H- Divided by sign. 

— Minus or less, subtraction sign. 

R. P. M. Revolutions per minute. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CAIvCULATIONS 



Yarn and Cloth Calculations. 



LENGTH AND WEIGHT TABLES. 

The following tables are used when dealing 
with cotton calculations: 

Table of Lengths for Cotton. 

14- 3'ds. ::^ The circumference of reel, or 1 wrap 
120 " ^^ 1 lea, or 80 wraps of the reel. 
840 " = 7 leas, or 1 hank. 

Table of Weights for all Textile Materials. 

437.5 grains =^ 1 ounce, avoirdupois. 
7000 " =16 ozs. or 1 pound. 

The counts of cotton yarns are based on the 
number of times that the standard of length, 840 
yards, is contained in the length of yarn re- 
quired to balance the standard of weight, 
1 pound; thus if 840 yards of yarn balance lib 
the counts are I's. 

If 4200 5'ards of yarn balance lib the counts 
are 5's, because 4200-f- 840=5; and so on, the 
higher the counts the more yards per pound, 
therefore the higher the counts the finer the 
yarn. 

CONSTANTS OR CONSTANT NUMBERS. 

In dealing with textile calculations there are 
several numbers that constantl}^ occur, making 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 9 

it feasible in some cases to dispense with one or 
other b}^ cancelling one into the other. 

The following list contains the principal con- 
stants that will be used in this book: 

.12; 
8.33; 

.2314; 
4.32 in. or 4i6 in.; 
764. 

The above constants, taken in rotation, are 
obtained as follows: 

.12 and 8.33. When 7000 (grains) and 840 
(yards) occur in the same calculation, the 
7000 may be dispensed with and .12 used in- 
stead of 840, or the 840 may be dispensed with 
and 8.33 used instead of 7000, 

because 840 ^ 7000 = .12, 
and 7000 -- 840 = 8.33 

In all calculations where a certain result ma}^ 
be obtained by multiplying by 8.33, the same 
result may be obtained bj^ dividing b}^ ,12, or 
vice versa, because 

1 X 8.33 = 8.33 
1 ^ .12 =8.33 

One 3'ard of I's cotton yarn weighs 8^ grains. 

As most of the yarn calculations deal princi- 
pally with lengths and weights the rules marked 
* will also apply to all other systems where 
higher counts indicate finer yarns by substituting 
their respective lengths instead of 840. 

In calculations where the constant 8.33 ap- 
pears the rules will appty to other materials b}^ 



10 PRACTICAI. COTTON CALCULATIONS 

substituting the following numbers: Worsted, 
12.5; Woolen, run system, 4.375; Linen and 
Woolen, cut system, 23.33. The numbers given 
indicate the weight in grains of 1 yard of I's 
yarn in the respective materials. 

Instead of .12 the following numbers may be 
used: Worsted, .08; Woolen, run system, .228-1-; 
Linen and Woolen, cut system, .043—. 

If any rule marked * does not contain the 
number 840 or either of the constants .12 or 
8.33, it wdll apply just as it stands for other 
materials as well as cotton. 

^2314 and 4.32. .2314 is used instead of 

3fivH40 ^^^^^s^ ^^^^ (grains) divided by 36 
(inches per yard) and 840 (yards) equals .2314. 

1 Qo • ^ • , A f 36X840 , 

4.3J IS used instead of because 

36X840 divided by 7000 equals 4.32. 

764. This number is used in cloth calcula- 
tions instead of 840 to allow for contraction in 
length and width, also for size or dressing on 
the warp yarns. All cloths contract in length 
and wddth to a greater or less degree, making 
it necessary to allow a certain amount of extra 
length of yarn for a given length or width of 
cloth. The 764 allows (adds) 10%. 

10% of 764 = 76, and 764 -f 76 = 840. 
The constant 764 cannot be used for all 
classes of goods because the factors mentioned 
above will var)^ in amount in different cloths. 
For very coarse goods, or cloths where sizing 
is added to give weight, a lower constant must 
be used. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 11 

The rules in which the constant 764 appears 
have been proved practical for cloths ranging in 
counts of yarn from 50 's to 70 's, and in counts 
of cloth from 60 to 80, the warp and filling in 
any one cloth, and the sle}- and pick being 
nearly equal. 

For some constructions of cloth the constant 
764 will have to be substituted by another, 
higher or lower, according to whether the con- 
traction is small or great. 

As perhaps all persons who have occasion to 
use the rules containing the constant 764 will 
have access to a weave room it is advisable that 
the}' select a few styles that vary in structure, 
7. e. that var>' in the sley as compared to the 
pick, or in warp as compared to falling, and 
note the difference in contraction, if any, and 
the cause of the same. From data obtained in 
this manner constants may be formulated that 
can be used in future when dealing with other 
cloths of approximately similar constructions. 
In this connection it will be well to bear in mind 
the various modifying factors explained preceed- 
ing Rule 55. 

Four cloths of unusual construction are given 
following Rule 56. The constants that should 
be used for these cloths when dealing with the 
filling, or the shrinkage in width, are as follows : 
Cloth No. 1 = 819 ; Cloth No. 2 = 755 ; Cloth 
No. 3 = 814; Cloth No. 4=828. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



TESTING YARNS FOR COUNTS, BY COMPARISON. 

When analyzing small cloth samples, the 
average counts of the yarn ma}^ readily be found 
from the cloth by Rule 46. 

In some cases the warp and filling may vary 
considerably in counts, making it necessary to 
find the counts of each separately. The counts 
of the warp yarn is generally found, the mills 
usually using but few different warp counts, and 
varying the weights of the cloths by changing 
the counts of the filling, if necessary, because it 
is more practical and convenient. Although 
short method No. 1, on the following page ma)^ 
be applied for finding the counts of the yarn by 
weighing a few inches, the most practical method 
is by comparing the warp yarn from the cloth 
with warp yarns of known counts. 

A B 



lfinrft,i,fii*ttjn>tt,,t 



Fig. 1. 



Fig. 2: 

Fig. 1 illustrates the method of testing known 
with unknown counts ; " A " represents the 
known and "B" the unknown counts. To get 
the yarns as here shown place one or more yarns 
of the known at right angles to the unknown 



PRACTICAI, COTTON CALCULATIONS 18 

counts, and twist them, making as it were one 
continuous yarn. If one j-arn is coarser than 
the other it can readily be seen, after twisting. 
Fig. 2 shows the yarns in Fig. 1 after being 
twisted. It is advisable to wet the yarns, at the 
point where they are crossed, before twisting. 

The greater the number of strands of each 
count used, the less the liability to error. 

This method of testing is used practically, 
because a mill usually uses the nearest counts 
of warp }^arn that they have on hand to the 
counts of the warp in the sample if the}' intend 
to duplicate it. 

Some persons do not care to trust the naked 
eye when comparing yarns but prefer to use a 
magnifying glass of some kind, such as a pick 
glass, reading glass, or microscope. 

TESTING YARNS FOR COUNTS, BY WEIGHING 
SHORT LENGTHS. 

1. The number of inches that weigh 1 gr. X 
.2314 = Counts. 

2. The number of strands of yarn, each 4ic 
inches or 4.32 inches long that weigh 1 grain = 
Counts. 

3. Number of yards weighed X 8^ -^ weight 
in grains =^ Counts. 

4. Number of yards weighed -4- .12 X weight 
in grains = Counts. 

5. 1000 divided by weight in grains of 1 lea 
= Counts. 



14 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



REELING YARNS. 

To Find Counts of Yarn from Any Number of Yards 
■ Reeled or Measured. 

*RuIe 1. Multiply the yiumbei- of yai'ds reeled 
by 8^ and divide by the iveight in grains. 

Example. 10 yards of cotton yarn weigh 
2 grains. What are the counts ? 

10 yds. X 8.333 ., _, ^ ^ . 

— ^-— = 41.66 s Counts, Ans. 

2 grs. 

or by *Rule 1-A. Divide the niunber of yards 
reeled by .12 afid the weight in grains. 

Example. Same as preceding. 

10 yds. ^ 41.66's Counts, Ans. 
.12 X 2 grs. 

Rules 1 and 1-A will apply when desiring 

To Find the Number of Hank of Roving. 



To Find Counts of Yarn from Bobbins or Cops. 

Reel one lea each from 1, 2, 3, or 4 bobbins 
or cops and use 

Rule 2. Add 3 ciphers to the number of leas 
reeled and divide by the weight of the yarn in 
grains. 

Example. One lea is reeled from each of 
4 bobbins and found to weigh 50 grains. What 
are the Counts ? 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS lo 

4000 -^ 50 grs. = 80's Counts, A71S. 

In the above rule V" of a hank is considered in 
connection with a corresponding portion of a 
pound, /. c. ^ji of 7000 grains = 1000 grains. If 
1 lea is reeled from each of 4 bobbins, then 4 leas 
are reeled, or-*/? of a hank. As ^ji of a hank is 
weighed, the weight must be divided into 4000 
grains, or^/rof a pound. 

The principal reasons why 1 lea is reeled from 
each of 4 bobbins in preference to 4 leas from 
1 bobbin, or 1 lea from 1 bobbin, are that the 
yarn may be reeled on an ordinary reel from 
4 bobbins at a time, thus saving time, and a 
better average may be obtained as there is 
greater liability for the yarn to vary in size on 
4 bobbins than on 1 bobbin. 

On the four following pages Draper's cotton 
3'arn numbering tables are reproduced by per- 
mission of The Draper Co., Hopedale, Mass. 
These tables are based on the weight in grains 
of 1 lea, or 120 yards. 

If more than one bobbin or cop is used and 
more than one lea weighed, divide the weight 
in grains by the number of leas. 

KxAMPLE. One lea is reeled from each of 
four bobbins, and found to weigh 50 grains. 
What are the counts? 

50 -=- 4 =: 12.5 grains per lea, which shows 
on the table to be 80 's yarn. 



16 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



Table for numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight in grains of 
120 yards or I skein. 



myds. 


Number 


myda. 


Number 


120yd9. 


Number 


120jds. 


Number 


120yd8. 


Number 


weigh 


of 


weigh 


of 


weigh 


of 


weigh 


of 


weigh 


of 


grains. 


rani. 


grains. 


Yam. 


graiu.. 


Vara. 


grains 


Yaro 


graina. 


Yarn. 


1. 


1000. 


14. 


71.43 


31 


47.62 


38. 


35.71 


35. 


28.57 


2. 


500. 




70.92 


.1 


47.39 


.1 


35.69 


.1 


28.49 


3. 




2 


70.42 


2 


47.17 


.2 


35.46 


.2 


28.41 


4. 


25o!o 


.3 


69.93 




46.95 




35.34 


.3 


28.33 


5. 


200.0 


4 


69.44 


4 


46.73 


[4 


35.21 




28.25 


5.5 


181.8 


.5 


68.97 


5 


46.51 


.5 


35.09 


's 


28.17 




166.7 


.6 




6 


46.30 


.6 


34.97 


.6 


28.09 


e.5 


153.8 


,7 


68:03 


.7 


46.Q8 


.7 


34.84 


.7 


28.01 


7. 


142.9 




67.57 




45.87 


.8 


34.72 


.8 


27.93 


7.5 


133.3 


'.9 


67.11 


.9 


46.66 


.9 


34.60 




27.86 


8. 


125.0 


15. 


66.G7 


83. 


45.45 


89 


34.48 


36^ 


27.78 


.1 


123.5 


.1 


66.23 


.1 


45.25 


.1 


34.36 




27.70 




122.0 


.2 


65.79 


.2 


45.05 


.2 


34.25 


'.2 


27.62 


3 


120.5 


3 


65.36 


.3 


44.84 


.3 


34.13 


.3 


27.55 


4 


119.0 


.4 


64.94 


.4 


44.64 


4 


34.01 


.4 


27.47 


5 


117.6 


.5 


64.52 


.5 


44.44 


.5 


33.90 


.5 


27.40 


6 


116.3 


6 


64.10 


.6 


44.25 


.6 


33.78 


.6 


27.32 


7 


114.9 


7 


63.69 


.7 


44.05 


7 


33.67 


7 


27.25 


.8 


113.6 


.8 


63.29 




43.86 


.8 


33.56 


.8 


27.17 


.9 


112.4 


.9 


62.89 


!9 


43.67 


.9 


33.44 


.9 


27.10 


9. 


111.1 


16. 


62.50 


83- 


43.48 


30 


33.33 


37 


27.03 




109.9 




62.11 


.1 


43.29 




33.22 




26.95 


.2 


108.7 


2 


61.73 


.2 


43.10 


.2 


33.11 


.2 


26.88 


3 


107.5 




61.35 




42.92 


.3 


33.00 


.3 


26.81 


4 


106.4 


4 


60.98 


^4 


42.74 


.4 


32.89 


.4 


20.74 


5 


105.3 


.5 




5 


42.55 


.5 


32.79 


.6 


2G.67 


6 


104.2 


6 


60:24 




42.37 


.6 


32.68 




2G.60 


.7 


103.1 


7 


59.88 


■7 


42.19 


.7 


32.57 


■.7 


20.53 


.8 


102.0 


.8 


59.52 


.8 


42.02 


.8 


32.47 


.8 


26.46 


.9 


101.0 




59.17 


.9 


41.84 


.0 


32.36 


.9 


26.39 


to 


100.0 


n'. 


58.82 


34. 


41.67 


31. 


32.26 


38. 


20.32 


.1 


99.01 


.1 


58.48 




41.49 




32.16 




26.25 


.2 


98.04 




58.14 


2 


41.32 


'.2 


32.05 


'.2 


20.18 


.3 


97.09 


3 


57.80 




41.15 


.3 


31.95 


.3 


20.11 


.4 


96.15 


4 


67.47 


4 


40.98 


A 


31.86 


.4 


26.04 


.5 


95.24 


5 


57.14 


6 


40.82 




31.75 


.5 


25.97 




94.34 


6 


66.82 




40.65 


.(i 


31.65 


.6 


25.91 


7 


93.46 


7 


56.50 


'■7 


40.49 


7 


31.55 


.7 


25.84 




92.59 


.8 


56.18 


.8 


40.32 


.8 


31.45 


.8 


25.77 


9 


91.74 




55.87 


9 


40.16 


.9 


31.35 




25.71 


11. 


90.91 


18.' 


55.56 


85. 


40.00 


38. 


31.25 


39! 


25.64 


1 


90.09 




55.25 


1 


39.84 


.1 


31.16 




25.58 


2 


89.29 


2 


54.95 


2 


39.68 


.2 


31.06 


.2 


25.51 


.3 


88.50 


3 


54.64 




39.53 


.3 


30.96 


.3 


25.45 


4 


87.72 


4 


54.35 


4 


39.37 


.4 


30.86 


.4 


25.38 


5 


86.96 


.5 


64.05 


6 


39.22 


.5 


30.77 


5 


25.32 




86.21 




53.76 


.6 


39.06 


6 


30.67 


.6 


25.25 


^7 


85.47 




53.48 


.7 


38.91 


7 


30.58 


.7 


25.19 


.8 


84.75 


.8 


53.19 


.8 


38.76 


.8 


30.49 


.8 


25.13 


.9 


84.03 




52.91 


9 


38.61 


.9 


30.40 




25.06 


13. 


83.33 


19. 


62.63 


86. 


38.46 


33. 


30.30 


40.' 


25.00 




82.64 


.1 


52.36 




38.31 


.1 


30.21 




24.94 


.2 


81.97 


.2 


52.08 


.2 


38.17 


.2 


30.12 


'.2 


24.88 


.3 


81.30 


.3 


51.81 


3 


38.02 


.3 


30.03 


.3 


24.81 


.4 


80.65 


4 


51.55 


4 


37.88 




29.94 


.4 


24.75 


.5 


80.00 


.5 


51.28 


5 


37.74 


!5 


29.85 


.5 


24.69 


.6 


79.37 


.6 


51.02 


.6 


37.59 


.6 


29.76 


.6 


24.63 


.7 


78.74 


.7 


50.76 


.7 


37.45 


.7 


29.67 


.7 


24.57 


8 


78.12 


.8 


50.51 


.8 


37.31 




29.59 




24.51 


.9 


77.52 


.9 


50.25 


.9 


37.17 




29.50 




24.45 


13. 


76.92 


80. 


50.00 


87- 


37.04 


34." 


29.41 


41.' 


24.39 


,1 


76.34 




49.75 


.1 


36.90 


.1 


29.33 


.1 


24.33 


.2 


75.76 


'.2 


49.50 


.2 


36.77 


.2 


29.24 


.2 


24.27 


.3 


75.19 


.3 


49.26 


.3 




.3 


29.15 




24.21 


.4 


74.63 


.4 


49.02 


.4 


ieilo 


.4 


29.07 


.4 


24.15 




74.07 


.5 


48.78 


.5 


36.36 


.5 


28.99 


.5 


24.10 




73.53 


.6 


48.54 


.6 


36.23 




28.90 




24.04 




72.99 


.7 


48.31 


.7 


36.10 


'.7 


28.82 


'.7 




!8 


72.46 


.8 


48.08 


.8 


35.97 


.8 


28.74 


.8 


23)92 


.9 


71.94 


.9 


47.85 


.9 


35.84 


.9 


28.66 




23.87 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



17 



Tablfc lor numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight in grains o» 
120 yards or I skein. 





120yds 


Number 


120ycl3 


Number 


120yd3 


Number 


I20yd8 


Number 


120jds Number 






weigh 


of 


«eigh 


of 


weigh 


of 


weigh 


of 


weigh 








grains 


Yarn. 


grains 


Yarn. 


grains 


Yarn 


grains 


Yam 


grains. 


Yarn 






^ 


23.81 
23.75 


49. 


Hi] 


66. 


17.86 
17.83 


63 


15.87 
15.85 


70. 


14.29 
14.27 






.2 


23.70 


':i 


20.33 


'.2 


17.79 


'.2 


15.83 


'.2 


14.25 






.3 


23.04 


.3 


20.28 


.3 


17.70 


.3 


15.80 


.3 


14.22 






.4 


23.58 


.4 


20.24 


.4 


17.73 


.4 


15.77 


.4 


14.20 






.5 


23.53 


.5 


20.20 


.5 


17.70 


.5 


15.75 


.5 


14.18 






.6 


23.47 


.6 


20.16 




17.67 




15.72 


.6 


14.16 






.7 


23.42 


.7 


20.12 


!7 


17.64 


'.1 


15.70 


.7 


14.14 






.8 


23.36 


.8 


20.08 




17.61 


.8 


15.67 


.8 


14.12 






.9 


23.31 


.9 


20.04 


:9 


17.57 




15.65 


.9 


14.10 






43. 


23.26 


SO. 


20.00 


57. 


17.54 


04.' 


15.62 


71. 


14.08. 








23.20 


.1 


19.96 


.1 


17.51 


.1 


15.60 


.1 


14.06 






'.2 


23.15 


.2 


19.92 


.2 


17.48 


.2 


15.58 


.2 


14.04 






.3 


23.09 


.3 


19.88 


.3 


17.45 


.3 


15.55 


.3 


14.03 






.4 


23.04 


.4 


19.84 


.4 


17.42 


.4 


15.53 


.4 


14.01 






.S 


22.99 


.5 


10.80 


.5 


17.39 


.6 


L5.50 


.5 


13.99 






.6 


22.94 


.6 


19.76 


.6 


17.36 


.6 


15.48 


.6 


13.97 






.7 


22.88 


.7 


19.72 


.7 


17.33 


.7 


15.46 


.7 


13.95 






.8 


22.83 


.8 


19.69 


.8 


17.30 


.8 


15.43 


.8 


13.93 






.9 


22.78 


.9 


19.05 


.9 


17.27 


.9 


15.41 


.9 


13.91 






44. 


22.73 
22.68 


61. 


19.61 
19.57 


":i 


17.24 
17.21 


66. 


15.38 
15.36 


'"1 


13.89 
13.87 






.2 


22.62 


.2 


19.53 


.2 


17.18 


i 15.34 


.2 


13.85 






.3 


22.57 


.3 


19.49 


,3 


17.15 


.3 > 15.31 


.3 


13.83 






.4 


22.52 


.4 


19.46 


.4 


17.12 


.4 


15.29 


.4 


13.81 






.5 


22.47 


.5 


19.42 


.5 


17.09 


.6 


15.27 


.5 


13.79 






.6 


22.42 


.6 


19.38 


.6 


17.06 


.6 


15.24 


.6 


13.77 






.7 


22.37 


.7 


19.34 


.7 


17.04 


.7 


15.22 


.7 


13.76 






.8 


22.32 


.8 


19.31 


.8 


17.01 


.8 


15.20 


.8 


13.74 








22.27 


.9 


19.27 


.9 


16.98 


.9 


16.17 




13.72 






45.' 


22.22 


5!«. 


19.23 


S\t. 


16.95 


6b 


15.15 


7^: 


13.70 






.1 


22.17 


.1 


19.19 


.1 


16.92 


.1 


15.13 


.1 


13.68 






.2 


22.12 


.2 


19.16 


.2 


16.89 


.2 


15.11 


.2 


13.66 








22.08 


.3 


19.12 


.3 


16.86 


.3 


15.08 


.3 


13.64 






.4 


22.03 


.4 


19.08 


.4 


16.84 


.4 


15.06 


.4 


13.62 






.5 


21.98 


.5 


19.05 


.5 


16.81 


.6 




.5 


13.61 








21.93 


.6 


19.01 




6 


16.78 


.6 


15:02 


.6 


13.59 






.7 


21.88 


.7 


18.98 




7 


16.76 


.7 




.7 


13.57 






.8 


21.83 




18.9-^ 




8 


16.72 


.8 


It:!? 


.8 


13.55 








21.79 


:9 


18.90 




9 


16-.6S 


.9 


14.95 




13.53 






*% 


21.74 

21.6'J 


63. 


18.87 
18.83 


CO 


1 


16.67 
16.64 


«':i 


14.93 
14.90 


74. 
.1 


13.51 
13.50 






.2 


21.65 




18.80 




2 


16.61 


.2 


14.88 


.2 


13.48 






.3 


21.60 


;3 


18.76 


.3 


16.58 


.3 


14.86 


.3 


13.46 






.4 


21.55 


.4 


18.73 
"18.69 


.4 


16.5f 


.4 


14.84 


.4 


13.44 






.6 


21.51 


.5 


.5 


16.53 


.5 


14.81 


.5 


13.42 






.G 


31.46 


.6 


18.66 


.6 


16.5t 


.6 


14.79 


.6 


13.40 






.7 


21.4] 


.7 


18.62 




7 


16.47 


.7 


14.77 


.7 


13.39 








21.37 


.8 


18.59 




8 


18.46 


.8 


14.75 


.8 


13.37 






.9 


21.32 


.9 


18.5;j 






16.42 


.9 


14.73 




13.35 






47 


21.28 


64. 


18.52 


61 




10.39 


6t>. 


14.71 


75: 


13.33 






.1 


21.23 




18.4K 




1 


16.37 


.1 


14.68 


.1 


13.32 






.2 


31.19 


'.2 


18.45 




2 


16.34 


.2 


14.66 


.2 


13.30 






.3 


21.14 


.3 


18.42 






16.31 


.3 


14.64 


.3 


13.28 






.4 


21.10 


.4 


18.38 




4 


16.29 


.4 


14.62 


.4 


13.26 






.5 


21.05 


.5 


18.35 




5 


16.26 


.5 


14.60 


.5 


13.25 






.6 


21.01 


.6 


18.32 






16.23 


.6 


14.58 


.6 


13.23 






.7 


20.96 


.7 


18.28 


■7 


16.21 


.7 


14.56 


.7 


13.21 






.8 


20.92 


.8 


18.25 


.8 


16.19 


.8 


14.53 


.8 


13.19 






.9 


20.88 


.9 


18.21 


9 


16.16 


.9 


14.61 


.9 


13.18 






48. 


20.83 


55. 


18.18 


«•* 


10.13 


6» 


14.49 


7b. 


13.10 






.1 


20.79 


.1 


18.15 


.1 


16.10 


.1 


14.47 


.1 


13 14 








20.75 


.2 


18.12 


.2 


10.08 


.2 


14.45 


.2 


13.12 








20.70 


i 


18.08 


.3 


10.05 


3 


14.43 


.3 


13.11 






A 


20.66 


18.05 


A 


16.03 


.4 


14.41 


.4 


13.09 






.5 


20.62 


.5 


18.02 


.5 


16.00 


.5 


14.59 


,5 


13.07 






.6 


20.57 




17.90 




15.97 


.6 


14.57 


.6 


13.05 






.7 


20.53 


'.1 


17.96 


■7 


15.95 


7 


14.35 


.7 


13.04 






.8 


20.49 


.8 


17.92 


.8 


15.92 




14.33 


.8 


13.02 






.9 20.45 1 




17.89 


9 


15.90 


.'9 


14.31 


.9 


13.00 





18 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



Table fo' numbering Cotton Varn by the weight 
120 yards or I skein 



grains of 



120yds. Nunibcrl 


120vils. Nunib.-r| 


120jds 


Nun.l.cT 


120jds 


Number 


120\d8 Nun.berl 


weigl. 


of 


Mfi^h 


of 


»eii:h 


of 


«eigl, 




weigh 


of 


grains. 


Yarn 


lirains 


Yarn 


grains 


Yarn 


grains 


Varn. 


grains. 


Yarn 


77. 


12.99 


84 


11.90 


91. 


10.99 


98. 


10.20 




9.52 




12.07 




11.89 


.1 


10.98 




10.19 


10.,.^ 


9.51 


'.•2 


12.95 


12 


11.88 


.2 


10.90 


'2 


10.18 


'.2 


9.51 


.3 12.94 1 


.3 


11.80 




10.95 


.3 


10.17 


.3 


9.50 


.4 


12.92 


.4 


11.85 


A 


10.94 


.4 


10.16 


.4 


9.49 


.5 


12.90 




11.83 


.5 


10.93 


.5 


10.15 


.5 


9.48 




12.89 


'}, 


11.82 


.6 


10.92 


.6 


10.14 


.6 


9.47 


'A 


12.P7 


.7 


11.81 


.7 


10.91 


.7 


10.13 


.7 


9.46 


.8 


12.8C 


.8 


11.79 


.8 


10.89 


.8 


10.12 


.8 


0.45 


.9 


12.84 




11.78 


.9 


10.88 




10.11 


9 


9.44 


78. 


12.82 


85" 


11.70 


93. 


10.87 


99! 


10.10 


100. 


9.43 


.1 


12.80 




11.75 




111.80 


:i 


10.09 


.1 


9.43 


.2 


12.79 


!2 


11.74 


'.2 


10.85 


2 


10.08 


.2 


9.42 


.3 


12.77 




11.72 


.3 


10.83 




10.07 


.3 


9.41 


.4 


12.70 


.4 


11.71 


.4 


10.82 




1 0.06 


.4 


9.40 


.6 


12.74 


.5 


11.70 


.5 


10.81 


'.a 


10.05 


.5 


9.39 


.G 


12.72 




11.08 


.0 


10.80 


. .6 


10.04 




9.38 


.7 


12.71 


'.■7 


11.07 


7 


10.79 


.7 


10.03 


■.7' 


9.37 




12.09 


,8 


11.00 


.8 


10.78 


.8 


10.02 


.8 


9.36 


;9 


12.07 


.9 


11.04 


9 


10.70 


9 


10.01 




9.35 


79. 


12.00 


86. 


11.03 


93 


10.75 


100. 


10.00 


107. 


9.35 


1 


12.04 




11.01 




10.74 


.1 


9.99 


,1 


9.34 


.2 


12.03 


'.•2 


11.00 


M 


10.73 


2 


9.98 


,2 






12.01 


.3 


11.59 


3 


10.72 


.3 


9.97 


.3 


9I2 


A 


12.59 


.4 


11.57 




10.71 


.4 


9.90 


.4 


9.31 


.6 


12.C8 


.5 


11.50 


'5 


10.70 


.5 


9.95 


.5 


0.30 


.6 


12.BG 


.6 


11.55 





10.68 


.6 


9.94 




9.29 


.7 


12.55 


.7 


11.53 


.7 


10.67 


,7 


9.93 


.7 


9.29 


.8 


12.53 




11.52 


.8 


10.60 


8 


9.92 




9.28 




12.52 


!9 


11.51 


9 


10.65 


.9 


9.91 


'9 


9.27 


80! 


12.50 


87. 


11.49 


94. 


10.64 


101. 


9.90 


108. 


9.26 


.1 


12.48 




11.48 


.1 


10.63 




9.89 


.1 


9.25 


.2 


12.47 


'.2 


11.47 


.2 


10.02 


'.2 


9.88 


.2 


9.24 


3 


12.45 


.3 


11.45 


3 


10.00 


.3 


9.87 






.4 


12.44 


.4 


11.44 


4 


10.59 


.4 


9.80 


.4 


9.23 


.5 


12.42 


.5 


11.43 


.5 


10.58 


.5 


9.S5 


.5 


9.22 


.6 


12.41 


.0 


11.42 


.6 


10.67 




9.84 


.G 


9.21 


7 


12.39 


.7 


11.40 


.7 


10.50 


'.1 


9.83 


■7 


9.20 


.8 




.8 


11.39 




10.55 




9.82 




9.19 


.9 




9 


11.38 


'9 


10.54 




9.81 


:9 


9.18 


81 


12.35 


88 


11.30 


95. 


10.53 


108. 


9.80 


109. 


9.17 


.1 


12.33 


.1 


11.35 




10.52 


.1 


9.79 


.2 


9.16 


.2 


12.32 


.2 


11.34 


2 


10.50 


.2 


9.78 


.4 


9.14 


.3 


12.30 




11.33 




10.49 




9.78 


.6 


0.12 


.4 


12.29 


.4 


11.31 


4 


10.48 


^4 


9.77 


.8 


0.11 


.5 


12.27 


.5 


11.30 


.5 


10.47 


.5 


9.76 


110. 


0.09 


.6 


12.25 


.6 


11.29 


.0 


10.46 


.6 


9.75 


.2 


0.07 


.7 


12.24 


.7 


11.27 


7 


10.45 


.7 


9.74 


.4 


0.06 




l5.22 


.8 


11.20 


.8 


10.44 


.8 


9.73 


.6 


0.04 




12.21 


9 


11.25 




10.43 


.9 


9.72 


.8 


0.03 




12.20 


89 


1 1 .24 


96 


10.42 


103. 


9.71 


111. 


9.01 


.1 


12.18 




11.22 


1 


10.41 




9.70 


.2 


8.99 




12.17 


'.2 


11.21 


.2 


10.40 


'.2 


9.09 




8.98 


.3 


12.15 


.3 


11.20 




10.38 


.3 


9.68 




8.90 


A 


12.14 


.4 


11.19 


'a 


10.37 


.4 


9.07 


'.S 


8.94 


5 


12.12 


.5 


11.17 


.5 


10.36 


.5 


9.00 


112. 


8.93 


% 


12.11 


.6 


11.16 




10.35 


.6 


9.05 


.2 


8.91 


.7 


12.09 


.7 


11.15 


'.7 


10.34 


.7 


9.64 


.4 


8.90 


.8 


12.08 




11.14 


.8 


10.33 


.8 


9.63 




8.88 


.9 


12.06 


!9 


11.12 


.9 


10.32 


.9 


9.62 


.8 


%-Vr 


83. 


12.05 


90. 


11.11 


97 


10.31 


104. 


9.62 


113. 


8.85 




12.03 


.1 


11.10 




10.30 


.1 


0.61 


.2 


8.83 


'.2 


12.02 


.2 


11.09 


'.2 


10.29 


.2 


9.60 


.4 


8.82 


.3 


12.00 




11.07 


.3 


10.28 




9.59 


.6 


8.80 




11 t)9 




11.06 


.4 


10.27 


A 


9.58 




8.79 


is 


All 


'5 


11.05 


.5 


10.26 


.5 


9.57 


114; 


8.77 


.6 


11.96 


.6 


11.04 




10.25 


.6 


9.50 


.2 


8.70 


.7 


11:95 


.7 


11.03 


'.1 


10.24 


.7 


9.55 


4 


8.74 


8 




.8 


11.01 


.8 


10.22 


.8 


9.54 


.6 


8.73 


:9 


ll!92 


.9 


11.00 




10.21 


.9 


9.53 


.8 


8.71 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

Table for numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight in grains o* 
120 yards or I skein 



19 



I20yd3 
weigh 


Number 


S: 


Numbei 


I20yds 


Numbei 


120jds. 


Number 


120.vds 


Numbe. 


of 


of 


™igh 


of 


»eii;h 


of 


weigh 


of 


graioa. 


Yarn 


140. 


Yarn. 


grains. 
180. 


Yarn. 


grains. 


Yarn 


grains 


Yarn. 


115. 


8.70 


7.14 


5.56 


350. 


4.00 


400. 


2.50 


.2 


8.68 


.5 


7.12 


181. 


5.52 


252. 


3.97 


405. 


2.47 


.4 


8.67 


141. 


7.09 


182. 


5.49 


254. 


3.94 


410. 


2.44 


.6 


8.G5 


.5 


7.07 




5.46 


256. 


3.91 


415. 


2.41 


.8 


8.64 


142. 


7.04 


184: 


5.43 


258. 


3.88 


420. 


2.38 


116. 


8.62 




7.02 


185. 


5.41 


260. 


3.85 


425. 


2.35 


.2 


8.61 


143;' 


6.99 


186. 


5.38 


262. 


3.82 


430. 


2.38 


.4 


8.59 


.5 


6.97 


187. 


5.35 


264. 


3.79 


435. 


2.30 




8.58 


144. 


6.94 


188. 


5.32 


266. 


3.76 


440. 


2.27 




8.56 


.5 


6.92 


189. 


5.29 


268. 


3.73 


445. 


2.25 


117. 


8.55 


143. 


6.90 


190. 


5.20 


370. 


.3.70 


450. 


2.22 


.2 


8.53 


.5 


6.87 


191. 


5.24 


272. 




455. 


2.20 


.4 


8.52 


146. 


6.85 


192. 


5.21 


274. 


3:65 


460. 


2.17 


.b 


8.,50 


.5 


6.83 


193. 


5.18 


276. 


3.62 


465. 


2.15 


.8 


8.49 


147. 


6.80 


194. 


5.15 


278. 




470. 


2.13 


118. 


8.47 


.5 


6.78 


195. 


5.13 


280. 


3:57 


475. 


2.11 




8.46 


148.^ 


6.70 


196. 


5.10 




.3.55 


480. 


2.08 


'.4 


8.45 




6.73 


197. 


5.08 




.3.52 


485, 


2.06 




8.43 


149!'' 


6.71 




5.05 




3.50 


490. 


2,04 


3 


8.42 


.5 


6.69 


199. 


5.03 


288: 


3.47 


495. 


2.02 


119. 


8.40 


150. 


6.67 


800 


5.00 


290. 


3.45 


500. 


2.00 


.2 


8.39 


.5 


6.64 


201. 


4.98 


292. 


3.42 


505. 


1.98 


.4 




151. 


6.62 


202. 


4.95 


294. 


3.40 


510. 


1.90 


.6 


1:36 


.5 


6.60 


203. 


4.93 


29G. 


3.38 


515. 


1.94 


.8 




152. 


6.58 


204 


4.90 


298 


3.36 


520. 


1.92 


120. 


8 33 


.5 


6.56 


205. 


4.88 


300. 




525. 


1.90 


.2 


8.32 


153. 


6.54 


206. 


4.85 


302. 


3:31 


530. 




.4 


8.31 


5 


6.51 


207. 


4.83 


304. 


3.29 


535. 


i:87 




8.29 


154. 


6.49 


208. 


4.81 


306. 


.3.27 


540. 


1.85 


'.t 


8.28 




6.47 


209. 


4.78 


308. 


3.25 


545. 


1.83 


121. 




153. 


6.45 


310. 


4.76 


310 


3.23 


550. 


1.82 


.4 


8:24 


.5 


6.43 


211. 


4.74 


312 


3.21 


555. 




.6 


8.22 


156. 




212. 


4.72 


314. 


3.18 


560. 


1:79 


.8 


8.21 


.5 


6!39 


21.3. 


4.69 


316. 


3.17 


565. 


1.77 


122. 


8.20 


157. 


6.37 


214. 


4.67 


318. 


3.14 


570. 


1.75 


.5 


8.16 




6.35 


215. 


4.65 


320. 


3.12 


575. 


1.74 


123. 


8.13 


iss! 


6.33 


216. 


4.63 


322. 


3.11 


580. 


1.72 


.5 


8.10 


5 


6.31 


217. 


4.61 


324. 


3.09 


585. 


1.71 


124. 


8.06 


159. 


6.29 


218. 


4.59 


326. 


3.07 


590. 




.5 




5 


6.27 


219. 


4.57 


328. 


3.05 


595. 


1:68 


135. 


slob 


160. 


6.25 


320 


4.55- 


330. 


3.03 


GOO. 


1.67 


.5 


7.97 


.5 


6.23 


221 


4.52 


332. 


3.01 


610. 


1.64 


126. 


7.94 


161. 


6.21 


222. 


4.50 


334. 


2.99 


620. 


1.61 


.5 


7.91 


5 


6.19 


223 


4.48 


336. 


2.98 


630. 


1.59 


127. 


7.87 


162. 


6.17 


224. 


4.46 


338, 


2.96 


640. 


1.56 


.5 


7.84 


.5 


6.15 




4.44 


340. 


2.94 


050. 


1,54 


128. 


7.81 


163. 


6.13 




4.42 


342. 


2.92 


060. 


1.52 


.5 


7.78 


.5 


6.12 


227' 


4.41 


344. 


2.91 


670. 


1.4P 


129. 


7.75 


164. 


6.10 


228. 


4.39 


346 


2.89 


680. 


1.47 


5 


7.72 


.5 


6.08 


229 


4.37 


348 


2:87 


690. 


1.46 


130. 


7.69 


163. 


6.06 


330. 


4.35 


350. 


2.86 


700. 


1.43 


.5 


7.66 


.5 


6.04 


231. 


4.33 


3.52 


2.84 


710. 


1.41 


131. 


7.63 


166. 


6.02 


232 


4.31 


354. 


2.82 


720. 


1.39 


.5 


7.60 


.5 


6.01 




4.29 


356, 


2.81 


730. 


1.37 


132. 


7.53 


167. 


5.99 


234: 


4.27 


358 


2.79 


740, 


1.35 


.5 


7.55 


.5 


5.97 


235. 


4.26 


360. 


2.78 


750. 




133. 




168. 


5.95 


230. 


4.24 


362. 


2.76 


760. 


1:32 


.5 


7!49 


.5 


5.93 


237. 


4.22 


364. 


2.75 


770. 




134. 


7.46 


169. 


5.92 


238. 


4.20 


360. 


2.73 


780. 


1:28 


.5 


7.43 


.5 


6.90 


239. 


4.18 




2.72 


790, 


1.27 


133. 


7.41 


170. 


5.88 


340. 


4.17 


370 


2.70 


800. 


1.25 


.5 


7.38 


171. 


5.85 


241, 


4.15 


372. 


2.69 


820. 


1.22 


130. 


7.35 


172. 


5.81 


242. 


4.13 


374. 


2.67 


840. 


1.19 


.5 


7.33 


173. 


5.78 


243. 


4.12 


376. 


2.66 


860. 


1.16 


137. 


7.30 


174. 


5.75 


244. 


4.10 


378. 


2.65 


880, 


1.14 


.5 


7.27 


175. 


5.71 


245. 


4.08 




2.63 


900. 


1.11 


138. 


7.25 


176. 


5.68 


246. 


4.07 


382: 


2.'-.2 


925. 


1.08 


.5 


7.22 


177. 


5.65 


247. 


4.05 


385. 


2.60 


950. 


1.05 


139. 


7.19 


178. 


5.62 


248. 


4.03 


390. 


2.56 


075. 


1.03 


.5 


7.17 


179. 


6.r,p 


249. 




395. 


2..53 


1000. 


1.00 



20 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

SYSTEMS OF NUMBERING YARNS OF VARIOUS 
MATERIALS. 

The following systems, where higher counts 
indicate finer yarns, are used in the United 
States : 

Raw silk = number of yards per ounce. 

Spun silk= 840 yards per hank. 

Cotton = 840 yards per hank. 

Worsted = 560 yards per hank. 

Woolen = 1600 yards per run. 

Woolen = 300 yards per cut. 

lyinen = 300 yards per cut. 
The cut system of woolen counts is principally 
used in the vicinity of Philadelphia. 

The yarn calculations applying to cotton will 
also apply to any of the above systems, using 
their respective standard lengths instead of 840. 

EQUIVALENT COUNTS. 
To Find Equivalent Counts of Yarn from One Sys= 
tem to Another. 

Rule 3. Multiply the given counts of yar7i by 
its standard length and divide by the standard 
le^i^th in the system desired. 

Example. What counts of worsted is equal 
to a 30 's cotton yarn ? 

30's counts X 840 cotton standard ._, 

^^h T^—. — ^ — ^ =45's counts, 

odO worsted standard ^^^ 

Short Methods to Find Equivatent Counts of Yarn 
in Woolen, Worsted, Linen, Raw Silk, or Metric 
System of Counting Cotton to a Given United 
States Cotton Yarn. 

.525 X counts of cotton yarn =; woolen counts, 

run system. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



21 



1.5 X counts of cotton 3'arn:= worsted counts, 

hank system. 
2.8 X counts of cotton yarn = linen counts, 

cut system. 
2.8 X counts of cotton yarn = woolen counts, 

cut system. 

52.5 X counts of cotton yarn=raw silk counts, 

yds. per oz. system. 

1 .69 X counts of cotton yarn ^^ metric system 

of numbering cotton. 

Short Methods to Find Cotton Counts Equivalent to 

Any Given Counts of Woolen, Worsted, Linen, 

Raw Silk, or the Metric System of Counting 

Cotton Yarn. 

1.905 X counts 



.357 X 
.357 X 
.666 X 
.019 X 
.59 X 

The 

follows : 

840-^ 

840 -^ 

840 ^ 

840 -- 

1600 -- 
300 -- 

560^ 
16 ^ 



of woolen yarn, run system, 
counts of woolen yarn, cut " 

counts of linen yarn, cut " 

counts of worsted yarn, hank " 
counts raw silk yarn, yds. per oz. " 
counts of cotton in metric sys. = cotton 
counts in U. S. 
preceding constants are obtained as 



1600 = 
560 = 
300 = 

16 (ozs. 

840 = 
840 = 

840 = 
840 = 



.525 for woolen, run system. 

1.5 for worsted, hank sys. 

2.8 for linen and woolen, cut 

system. 

per ft) = 52.5 for raw silk, 

yds. per. oz. system. 

L.905 for woolen, run system. 
.357 for linen and woolen, cut 

system. 
.666 for worsted, hank system. 
.019 for raw^ silk, yds. per oz. 

system. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



COUNTS OF TWISTED OR PLY AND CABLE 
YARNSo 

When single yarns are twisted together to 
form a ply yarn the result is a heavier yarn than 
the counts divided by the number of ends twisted 
together, owing to the contraction in twisting. 
This can be proved by twisting 2 yarns together 
to a certain length, weighing them, and com- 
paring the weight with the weight of single 
yarns of similar length of the original couAts. 

For calculation purposes, however, a cotton 
ply yarn composed of 2 or more yarns of equal 
counts is regarded as being the size of the single 
yarns divided by the number of strands ; thus a 
yarn composed of two strands of 60's twisted 
together is considered equal to one of 30's single ; 
a yarn composed of three strands of 60 's is con- 
sidered equal to one of 20 's single, but the more 
twist there is put into a yarn the more it will 
contract in length and the coarser will be the 
actual counts. 

Ply yarns which are composed of single strands 
of equal size of yarn are indicated by the num- 
ber of strands which are twisted together and 
the counts of the single yarns written afterwards ; 
thus 2/40 's means 2 yarns of 40 's twisted to- 
gether, 3/100's means 3 yarns of 100' s twisted 
together. These j^arns would be equal to single 
yarns composed of 20's and 33.33's respectively. 

Cable yarns are composed of 2 or more pl)^ 
3^arns twisted together to form a fancy 5^arn. A 
4/2/50 's cable yarn would be composed of 4 ends 
of 2/50 's twisted together, making in all 8 ends 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 28 

of 50 's yarn, and would be equal to a single 
yarn of 6i counts. 

Unless used for fancy yarns for special pur- 
poses 2 single yarns of unequal counts are sel- 
dom or never used, as equal single yarns com- 
bined make the best pl^^ yarns. 

To Find the Counts of a Single Yarn Equal to a 
Ply Yarn Composed of 2 Single Yarns of Un= 
equal Counts. 

Rule 4. Divide the product of the t7vo coimts 
by their sum. 

Example. What counts of a single yarn is 
equal to a yarn composed of 30 's and 20 's 
twisted together ? 

30X20 600 TO- . ^ 

30+TO = ^ = ^^ ' ^°""'"' ^^'- 

To Find Counts of a Single Yarn Equal to a Ply 
Yarn Composed of 2 or More Yarns of Unequal 
Counts. 

Rule 5. Divide the highest counts by itself and 
by each of the lower counts in sziccession ; add 
results and divide into the highest counts. 

Example. What would be equal in a single 
yarn to a plv varn composed of 50's, 80's and 
lOO's? 

100 -- 100 = 1.00 



100 
100 



80 = 1.25 
50 = 2.00 



4.25 
100 -- 4.25 = 23.55's counts, Ans. 



24 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

To Find Counts of a Yarn to Twist With a Given 
Yarn to Produce a Required Ply Yarn. 

Rule 6. Multiply the required counts by the 
given counts and divide by their difference . 

Example. What counts of j^arn is required 
to twist with a 30 's to make a ply yarn equal to 
a 12's? 

30 X 12 360 ,^„, ^ . 

30—^2 ==^= 20 s counts, .4^z.. 

To Find Weight of Each Counts of Yarn Required to 
Malte a Given Weight of Ply Yarn when Yarns 
of Unequal Counts are Twisted Together. 

First, when only 2 counts are twisted together. 

Rule 7. Divide the highest counts by itself 
and by the other counts in succession. Add the 
quotients and divide into the total weight. 

The result will be the weight of the highest 
counts. 

Deduct the latter from the total weight to find 
the weight of the other counts. 

Example. It is desired to make 75 lbs. of 
ply yarn composed of 80 's and 60's. What 
weight of each is required? 

80 -f- 80 = 1 
80 ^ 60 = li 

2i 
75 lbs. ^ 2i = 32.14 lbs. of 80's, Ans. 
75 - 32.14 = 42.86 lbs. of 60's, Ans. 
If it is required to find the weight when more 
than two yarns are used the above rule will 
have to be modified. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 25 

Example. It is required to make 100 lbs. of 
ply yarn composed of lOO's, 80's and 50' s. 
What weight of each is required? 



100 -- 


100 = 1 


100^ 


80 = 1.25 


8 


50 = 2 



4.25 
100 lbs. ^ 4.25 = 23.529 lbs. of lOO's, Am 
23.529 X 1.25 = 29.411 lbs. of 80's, Ans. 
23.529 X 2 = 47.058 lbs. of 50's, Ans. 



99.998 lbs. total weight. 

Rules 4 to 7 are only approximately correct 
because when yarns of unequal counts are twisted 
together the coarser yarn has a tendency to 
retain a straight line and deflect the fine yarn. 
For a given length of ply yarn it would therefore 
be necessary to use a longer length of the fine 
than the coarse. 

Rules 4 to 7 will apply in all the systems, 
except spun silk, mentioned on page 20. 

To Find Weight of Each Kind of Warp Yarn Re= 
quired in a Group of Warps of Equal Length 
When Number of Ends of Each Kind, Counts, 
and Total Weight Are Known. 

Rule 8. Divide the number of ends of each 
counts by its own coimts. Add quotients. The 
result is to the total 7i'eight as each quotient is to 
the weight required of the respective counts. 

Example. A set of warps are' arranged as 
follows: 1st, 144 ends of 3/24's; 2d, 88 ends of 
4/32 's; 3d, 2400 ends of 50' s. What weight of 



26 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

each warp is required to make a total weight of 
100 lbs., provided the warps are all the same 
length ? 

144 ends of 3/24's = 432 ends of 24's 
88 ends of 4/32's = 352 ends of 32's 

432 ends -^ 24's counts =18 

352 ends ^ 32's counts =11 

2400 ends h- 50's counts = 48 











77 




77 


100 lbs. 


: 18 


23.38 lbs. 


of 24's, 


Ans 


77 


100 lbs. 


: 11 


14.28 lbs. 


of 32's, 


Ans 


77 


100 lbs. 


: 48 


62.34 lbs. 


of 50 's, 


Ans 



100.00 lbs. total weight. 

COUNTS OF SPUN SILK PLY YARNS. 

Spun silk* is counted like cotton when in the 
single yarn, but when writing the counts of ply 
silk the first number indicates the actual counts; 
thus 30/2, or 30 's 2 fold, means 2 strands of 
60's. An equivalent to this in cotton would be 
written 2/60' s. 30/3, or 30 's 3 fold in spun 
silk means 3 strands of 90's, whilst 3/30's in 
cotton means 3 strands of 30's. 

In some mills cotton ply yarn counts are 
written with the number of strands last, thus 
30/3, which means that it is equal to a lO's, 
but as this method conflicts with the silk method 
it is not as generally used as the method pre- 
viously explained i. e. writing the number of ply 
first. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 27 



TO FIND COUNTS, LENGTH, OR WEIGHT OF 
COTTON YARN. 

To Find Counts of Cotton Yarn When Length and 
Weight Are Known. 

*Rule 9. Divide the le7igth by the weight a7id 
by 840. 

Example. If 126000 yards of yarn weigh 
6 lbs. what are the counts? 

126000 vards 

'~r~^ — w cMA = 25's counts, Ans. 
6 lbs. X b40 



To Find Length of Cotton Yarn When Counts and 
Weight Are Known. 

*Rule 10. Multiply the counts by the weight 
and by 840. 

Example. What length of yarn is contained 
in 6 lbs. of 25's yarn? 
25's counts X 6 lbs. X 840 = 126000 yds., Ans. 

To Find Weight of Cotton Yarn When Counts and 
Length Are Known. 

*Rule 1 1. Divide the le7igth by the coiints and 
by 840. 

Example. What is the weight of 126000 
yards of 25's cotton yarn? 

126000 yards 



25's counts X 840 



6 lbs., Ans. 



28 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

The three preceding rules, 9, 10 and 11, may 
be summarized in 

Formula A. To Find Counts, Length or Weight of 
Cotton Yarn When the Other Factors Are 
Known. 

/ Weight in lbs. 
are \ X 

lyength in yards / equal \ Counts 

to / X 

I 840 

Rule. Divide the product of the remaining 
items of the group containing the required, item 
into the product of the other group . 



TO FIND WEIGHT, COUNTS, OR NUMBER OF 
HANKS OF YARN. 

To Find Weight of Yarn When Counts and Number 
of Hanks are Known. 

Rule 12. Divide the number of hanks by the 
counts. 

Example. What is the weight of 840 hanks 
of llO's yarn? 

840 hanks -^ llO's counts = 7.63 lbs., Ans. 

To Find Counts of Yarn When Weight and Number 
of Hanks Are Known. 

Rule 13 Divide the number of hanks by the 
weight. 

Example. 260 hanks of cotton yarn weigh 
15 lbs. What are the counts? 
260 hanks -^ 15 lbs. = 17i's counts, Afis. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 29 

To Find Number of Hanks When Weight and Counts 
Are Known. 

Rule 14. Multiply the weight by the coiaits. 

Example. How many hanks are there in 
20 lbs. of 60'syarn? 

20 lbs. X 60's counts = 1200 hanks, Ans. 

The three preceding rules, 12, 13 and 14, 
may be summarized in 

Formula B. To Find Counts, Weiglit, or Number 
of Hanks, when the Other Factors are Known. 

Counts \ are ( 

X / equal \ Number of hanks 

Weight in lbs. ) to ( 

Rule Divide the product of the remaining 
items of the group containi7ig the required item 
into the pj'-oduct of the other group. 



BEAM YARN AND WARP CALCULATIONS. 

It is intended in the following rules to cover 
as nearly as possible all calculations required for 
ascertaining the weight, counts, average counts, 
number of ends, length and number of hanks of 
warp yarns. 

To Find Counts of Yarn on a Beam when Length, 
Weight and Number of Ends Are Known. 

*Rule 15. Multiply the number of ends by 
the length and divide by 840 and the weight in 
pounds. 



'-?0 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

Example. 1000 ends on a warp 1176 yards 
long weigh 40 lbs. What are the counts? 
1000 ends X 1176 yards 
8^0 ^ ^0 lbs. = ^^ ' "°^^'^' ^^^'' 

Another method to find counts of yarn on a 
beam is as follows. Take off 120 ends each 
1 yard long, or 240 ends each ^ yard long, weigh 
them and divide the weight in grains into 1000. 
There would be less liability to error if 840 ends 
each 1 yard long were taken and weighed, and 
the weight in grains divided into 7000. 

This method is not as good as Rule 15 when 
the items dealt with there are known. 

To Find Weight of Yarn on a Beam when Length, 
Number of Ends and Counts are Known, 

*RuIe 16. Multiply the number of ends by the 
lerigth and divide by 840 and the counts. 

Example. A warp 1176 yards long contains 
1000 ends of 35 's cotton yarn. What is the 
weight ? 

1000 ends X 1176 yards 

FTTT^ 7^. = 40 lbs., A71S. 

840 X 35's counts 
Rule 16 may be applied when desiring 
To Find Weight of Warp Yarn in a Piece of Cloth 

but it must be understood that the slashing 
length, not the cloth length, must be taken. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 31 



FINDING WEIGHT OF YARN ON BEAMS IN THE 
LOOMS. 

When taking stock of the amount of yarn in 
the looms it is customary for the overseer to 
figure the weight of a cut of yarn on each style 
made, b}^ Rule 16. By ascertaining the number 
of cuts of yarn in the looms and multiplying by 
the weight per cut the weight of yarn on the 
respectiv^e styles is obtained. 

Example. A style of goods is made with 
2400 ends of 60 's cotton yarn, 55 yards per cut 
(slashing length). It is required to find the 
weight of yarn per cut, and also for 20 cuts. 

By Rule 16, 

2400 ends X 55 yards o fii o iu ^ a 

o<n x^ cc\^ . — = 2.619 lbs. per cut, Ans. 

840 X 60's counts - 

2.6191bs. of yarnpercut X 20 cuts = 52.38 lbs., 
weight of 20 cuts, Ans. 

Some mills do not trouble to ascertain how 
many cuts of each style there are when taking 
stock but assume each beam to be half full, and 
figure accordingly. This method, althoug hper- 
haps serving the purpose, is not accurate unless 
the person who does the calculating accidentally 
guesses the total number of cuts of each style, 
which is not probable. 

To Find Length of Yarn on a Beam when Counts, 
Weight and Number of Ends are Known. 

*RuIe 17. Multiply the coimts by the weight 
and by 840, and divide by the mimber of e?ids. 



82 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

Example. What is the length of a cotton 
warp of 1000 ends of 35 's yarn if the weight is 
40 pounds? 

35's counts X 40 lbs. X 840 ^,^^ , 
lOOO^nd^ = 11^^ y^^-' ^'^^- 



To Find Number of Ends on a Beam when Counts, 
Weight and Length are Known. 

*Rule 18. Multiply the counts by the weight 
and by 840, and divide by the length. 

Example. What is the number of ends on a 
warp 1176 yards long, of 35's yarn, if the weight 
is 40 lbs. ? 

35's counts X 40 lbs. X 840 ^ „.^ , . 

.^_„ — :; = 1000 ends, Arts. 

1176 yards 

The above rule is of a theoretical nature and 
will give only approximate results. 

The four preceding rules, 15 to 18, may be 
summarized in 

Formula C. To Find Cotton Counts, Weight, 
Length or Number of Ends on a Beam. 

] f 840 

Number of ends \ are | X 

X \ equal <j Weight in pounds 

Length in yards | to | X 

J L Counts of yarn 

Rule. Divide the prodiict of the remaining 
factors of the group containing the required item 
into the product of the other group. 



PRACTICAIv COTTON CAIvCULATIONS 38 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Set of Warps 
Containing Different Counts of Yarns. 

Rule 19. Divide the number of e7ids of single 
yar?i of each counts by its own counts ; add the 
results a7id divide into the total miniber of ends. 

Example. A warp pattern is arranged 5 ends 
of 20' s and 2 ends of 10' s. What are the aver- 
age counts? 

5 ends ^ 20's = .25 
2 ends ^ lO's = .2 

7 .45 

7 ends h- .45 = 15.5's average counts, Ans. 

It is advisable to find the total number of 
ends of each counts of yarn before preceding as 
above. 

Example. A set of 3 warps contains 288 
ends of 3/20's, 136 ends of 4/28's and 2552 ends 
of 40 's. What are the average counts of the 
single yarns? 

288 X 3 = 864 single ends of 20 's 

136 X 4 = 544 single ends of 28 "s 

864 ends ^ 20's counts = 43.20 

544 ends -f- 28's counts =19.43 

2552 ends h- 40's counts = 63.80 



3960 ends 126.43 

3960 total ends -^ 126.43 = 31.32 's average 

counts, Ans. 

To Find Number of Ends in an Equally Reeded Warp 
when Sley and Width of Cloth are Known. 

Rule 20. Multiply the sley by the cloth width 
and add the necessary nu77iber of eyids for selvedges. 



84 PRACTICAIv COTTON CAIvCULATIONS 

Example. How many ends would there be 
in an 88 sley cloth, 32 inches wide, allowing 24 
ends extra for selvedges ? 

88 sley X 32 inches = 2816 ends. 
2816 -|- 24 extra for selvedges = 2840 ends, Ans. 

The selvedges mentioned in the preceding 
example would consist of 48 ends. One half of 
these, 24 ends, are considered when multiplying 
the sley by the width. 

To Find Number of Hanks of Warp Yarn in a Piece 
of Cloth when Sley and Cloth Width are Known. 

Rule 21. Multiply sley by tvidth ; add sel- 
vedge ends; multiply answer by slashing le?igt/i 
and divide by 840. 

Example. A cloth is made 32 inches wide, 
110 sley and 100 yards long, the take-up of the 
warp being 7%. How many hanks of warp are 
there in the cloth ? 

110 sley X 32 inches = 3520 + 32 for selvedges 

= 3552 ends in warp. 

100 yds. cloth + 7% = 107 yds. slashing length. 

3552 ends X 107 yards <ro ii^ u i t 
5-777 = 452.45 hanks of warp, 

^4^ A71S. 



To Find Number of Hanks in a Warp when Number 
of Ends and Length are Known. 

Rule 22. Multiply the 7iumber of ends by the 
length, and divide by 840. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 8") 

Example. How many hanks are there in a 
cotton warp 800 yards long, containing 1920 
ends? 

1920 ends X 800 yards -.oou r ^, i a 
—. ^j^ ' ^ 1828.6 hanks, Aiis. 



To Find Length of a Cotton Warp when Number of 
Hanks and Number of Ends are Known. 

Rule 23. Multiply the mimber of ha^iks by 
840 and divide by the number of ends. 

Example. What is the length of a warp of 
2000 ends that can be made with 350 hanks of 
cotton yarn? 

, 350 hanks X 840 



2000 ends 



147 yards, Ayis. 



To Find Number of Ends in a Warp with Any Un= 
equally Reeded Pattern when Sley Reed, Width 
and Warp Layout are Known. 

First find the number of full patterns b)" Rule 
25 and apply 

Rule 24. Multiply the number of ends per 
pattern by the number of full patter7is ; add extra 
ends for any fraction of a pattern^ according to 
warp layout; also add selvedge ends. 

Example. A fancy cloth is required to be 
32 inches wide and woven in a 90 sley reed. 
Allowing 64 ends in 16 dents for selvedges, how 
many ends will be required in the warp if the 
following warp layout is used ? 



86 



PRACTICAI, COTTON CALCULATIONS 



Top Beam. 


Bottom Beam. 


Dents. 


3/40's yarn 


50 's yarn 






80 


40 


1 


6 


1) 

1 \2X 
Skip 1 ) 


1 


6 






1 


6 


1 


1 


6 


1 


6 ends 


116 ends 


48 dents 



By Rule 25 there are 29 full patterns and 
32 dents extra. 

116 ends 50's X 29 patterns = 3364 ends 50's 

6 ends 3/40's X 29 patterns = 174 " 3/40-s 

32 extra dents X 2 ends per dent = 64 " 50's 

64 ends for selvedges = 64 " 50's 

3666 total ends 
Ans. 

If it is required to know the total number of 
ends of single yarn the 174 ends of 3/40's would 
be figured as 522 single ends, making a total of 
4014 ends required in the'warp. 



To Find Number of Patterns in an Unequally Reeded 
Cloth When Sley Reed, Width and Number of 
Dents per Pattern are Known. 

Rule 25. Multiply o?ie-half the sley reed by 
the ividth; deduct the nuinber of dents for selvedges 
and divide by the number of debits per pattern. 

Example. A cloth is required to be 32 inches 
wide and woven in a 90 sle}^ reed; there are 48 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 37 

dents per pattern. Allowing 16 dents for selv- 
edges, how many patterns will there be? 

90 sley reed -e- 2 = 45 dents per inch. 

45 X 32 = 1440 total dents in warp. 

1440 — 16 dents for selvedges = 1424 dents. 

1424 dents ,,„ ^^ \ o^'a \ 

-——- = 29 patterns + 32 dents, 

48 dents per pattern ^ ^^^^ 

To Find Percentage of Size on Warp Yarns. 

Rule 26. Deduct the weight of the yar7i before 
sizing from the weight of the yarn after sizifig; 
add two ciphers to the a7iswer, or multiply by 100, 
and divide by the weight of the U7isi zed yarn. 

Example.. A warp weighs 140 pounds after 
sizing and 130 pounds before sizing. What per- 
centage of size has been added ? 

140 - 130 = 10; 10 X 100 = 1000; 
1000 H- 130 = 7.69 percentage of size, Ans. 

To Find Weight of Warp, in Ounces, per Yard of 
Cloth. 

Rule 27. Divide the number of e7ids i7i the 
ivarp by 52.5 and the coirnts. 

(840 yards ^ 16 ozs. = 52.5) 

Example. A warp contains 3200 ends of 
60 's yarn. What is the weight per yard, in 
ounces ? 

3200 ends 



52.5 X 60 's counts 



^ 1.016 ozs., A71S. 



38 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



WARP AND FILLING CALCULATIONS. 

After finding the number of yards per ft from 
a small piece of cloth it is sometimes necessary 

To Find the Counts from the Weight of a few Inches 
of Yarn. 

For this purpose use 

Rule 28. Multiply the yitunber of inches of 
yai'Jt that weigh 1 grain by .2314. (See con- 
stants.) 

Example. 170 inches of yarn weigh 1 grain. 
What are the counts? 

170 inches X .2314 = 39.338's counts, Ans. 



To Find Weight of Warp or Weight of Filling per Cut 
when Weight of Cut, 'X Warp or '/r of Filling 
are Known. 

Rule 29. Multiply the weight of the cut by '^ 
7carp to find the weight of the warp. 

Dedtict the weight of the tvarp frotn the weight 
of the cut to find the weight of the filling . 

Example. A cut of cloth weighs 6 lbs. and 
contains 55 % warp. What are the separate 
weights of warp and filling ? 

6 lbs. X .55 = 3.30 lbs. warp, Ans. 
6 lbs. - 3.30 = 2.70 lbs. filling, Ans. 

Example No. 2. A cut of cloth weighs 8 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 89 

lbs. and contains 47 % filling. What are the 
separate weights of filling and warp ? 

8 lbs. X .47 = 3.76 lbs. filling, A?is. 
8 lbs. - 3.76 = 4.24 lbs. warp, Atzs. 

To Find Weight of Warp or Filling Required per Day 
when Number of Yards per Pound, Production 
and % of Warp are Known. 

Rule 30. Divide the number of yards per day 
by the number of yards per lb. to find number of 
lbs. of cloth per day . 

Multiply the number of lbs. per day by the 
'/( warp tofi?id the iveight of warp. 

Deduct the iveight of the warp from the total 
7veight to find the weight of the filling . 

This does not allow for waste, which must be 
added. 

Example. A cloth ^\ j^ards per pound is 
produced from a loom at the rate of 39 yards per 
day. 55 % of it is warp. What weight of warp 
and filling is required per day ? 

39 H- 6y ^ 6 lbs. of cloth per day. 

6 lbs. X .55 =: 3.30 lbs. warp per day, Ans. 

6 lbs. - 3.30 = 2.70 lbs. filling per day, A^is. 



4G PRACTICAI, COTTON CALCULATIONS 



FILLING CALCULATIONS. 

To Find Number of Hanks of Filling in a Piece of 
Cloth when Pick, Width in Reed and Cloth 
Leng;th are Known. 

Rule 31. Multiply the pick by the width of the 
ivarp in the reed and the cloth length and divide 
by 840. 

See table previous to Rule 68. 

Example. A cloth is made 100 X 120, 32 
inches wide and 50 yards long. How man)' 
hanks of filling does it contain ? 

By Rule 60 a 100 sley cloth 32 inches wide 
would be woven 34 inches wide in the reed. 

120 pick X 34 inches X 50 yards „ „, „ , . 
— -^ ^^ = 242.8 hanks 

^^^ of filling, Ans. 

To Find Length of Cloth that can be Woven with 
a Given Counts and Weight of Filling When 
Width in Reed and Pick are Known. 

*Rule 32. Multiply the counts by 840 and 
the iveight and divide by the pick and the 
zvidth of the ivarp in the reed. 

Example. 7.5 lbs. of 70's filling is on hand 
to insert into a cloth to be woven 40 inches wide 
in the reed with 220 picks per inch. What 
length of cloth can be woven with it ? 

70's counts X 840 X 7.5 lbs. ^^ ^, 

iS7i?i — ^^i — ZT^fT- — ^i -• 7 = 50.11 yards, 

220 picks X 40 inches m reed ^ J^^^ 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 41 

To Find Weight of Filling Required per Cut when 
Width in Reed, Pick, Cloth Length and Filling 
Counts are Known. 

*RuIe ^3. Multiply ividth in reed in inches 
by pick and length of cloth in yards and divide 
by 8i0 and the counts. 

If the weight in ounces is desired, multiply 
the result by 16. 

Example. A cloth is desired 56 yards long, 
with 220 picks of 70's filling. The width in the 
reed is 40 inches. How man}^ pounds of filling 
are required ? 

40 inches X 220 picks X 56 yar ds _ ^ ^^ ,, 

840 X 70's filling counts — «-^« ^bs.^,^ 

To find counts of filling required the following 
factors must be dealt with : number of yards per 
pound, cloth or cut length, slashing length of 
each warp used, warp counts, number of ends of 
each counts, % of size or dressing on warp 
yarns, picks per inch and width in reed, therefore 

To Find Counts of Filling Required in Any Cloth 
Use 

Rule 34. Divide the number of yards per ctit 
by the number of yards per pound. 

This gives the weight of the cut in pounds. 

Multiply the mimber of ends of each counts by 
the slashing length per cut of the respective warps 
and divide by 840 and the cozmts; add a certain 
fc for size, if necessa?y. 

This gives the weight of the warp yarns. 



42 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

Deduct the iveight of the rvarp from the weight 
of the cut. 

This gives the weight of the filling. 

Multiply the picks per inch by the width in the 
reed and the cloth length and divide by 840 and 
the iveight of the filling . 

Example. A cloth is required 76 X 80, 28 
inches wide, 12 yards per pound, with 60's warp. 
Allowing 3 % for take-up and 4 % for size on 
the warp. What counts of filling is required? 

Assume a certain length of cut, say 100 yards. 

100 yard cut -^ 12 yards per ft) == 8.5 lbs. 

weight of cut. 
76 sley X 28 inches = 2128 ends + 32 for sel. 

== 2160 ends. 
100 yd. cut -\- 3 ^'/c ^ 103 yds., slashing length. 

2160 ends X 103 yards 

— Qin xy c r^ 1 "^ ^-^^ lbs. warp. 

840 X 60's counts y^ ^ 4 ^^ ^^^^^ 

4.58 lbs. warp and 
size ; this is considered warp. 

The preceding might have been done in one 
problem by adding the 4 % for size to the slash- 
ing length, and using 107 instead of 103. 

8.5 lbs. weight of cut 
4.58 lbs. weight of warp 

3.92 lbs. weight of filling 

76 sley X 28 inches wide , n^ . j . • j 

-^ = 1064 dents in reed. 

2 ends per dent 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 48 

1064 dent s 

85.71 dents per inch in a 76 sley reed inches 

width in reed. 
80 picks per in. X 29.8 in. X 100 yds . _ ^c, a, 
840 X 3.92 lbs. filh^i^i "fining 

required, Ans. 
If more than one warp counts is used or more 
than one beam, each one must be considered 
separatel5^ 

Cotton ply yarns are not usually sized. 

To Find Counts of Filling Required when Sley, Pick, 
Warp Counts and Average Counts are Known. 

Rule 35. Divide the sum of the sley and pick 
by the average cozmts = A. 

Divide sley by warp counts = B . 
Deduct B from A ^= C. 
Divide pick by C = Ans. 

Example. A cloth is desired 96 X 100. The 
average counts necessar}' is 84.6's and the warp 
counts on hand 74' s. What counts of filling 
must be used ? 

96 sley + 100 pick = 196 

196 ^ 84.6 av. counts = 2.316 = A. 

96 sley ^ 74 warp counts =1.297 = B. 

2.316 - 1.297 = 1.019 = 0. 

100 pick ^ 1.019 = 98's filling required, Ans. 

The above rule will also apply 

To Find the Warp Counts 

if the filling counts are known, by substituting 
sley for pick, and filling for warp. 



44 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

To Find Counts of Filling Required when Sley, Pick, 
Cloth Width, Warp Counts and Yards per Pound 
are Known, 

Rule 36. Divide 764 (see constants) by the 
doth 7vidrh and the number of yards per pound 
= A. 

Divide sley by zvarp cozmts = B . 

Deduct B from A = C. 

Divide pick by C= A7is. 

Example. A cloth is desired 96 X 100, 30 
inches wide, 11 jards per fb, the warp counts 
on hand are 74's. What counts of filling is 
required ? 

1^4 2.815=. A. 

80 inches X 11 yards per ft 
96 sle}^ -4- 74's warp counts = 1.297 ^ B. 
2.315 - 1.297= 1.018 =r c. 
100 pick -- 1.018 = 98's filling required, Ans. 

To Find Counts of Filling Required in a Cloth Con= 
taining 2 Different Counts of Filling Yarn, when 
Average Counts of Filling, Counts of 1 Filling, 
Number of Picks of Each Kind and Total Number 
of Picks per Pattern are Known. 

Rule 37. Divide the total number of picks per 
pattern by the average counts of the filling = A. 

Divide the nzimber of picks of the known cotints 
of filling by the latter = B. 

Deduct B from A ^= C. 

Divide the number of picks of the 7-equired 
counts by C = Ans. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 4.1 

Example. A filling check pattern is ar- 
ranged 08 picks of coarse and 360 picks of fine 
filling. The average counts of the filling required 
is 46.6, and the counts of the coarse filling 15. 
What is the counts of fine filling required ? 

860 + 38 = 398 total picks. 
398 -^ 46.6 = 8.540 = A. 
38 ^ 15 = 2.533 = B. 



6.007=: C. 
360 -=- 6.007 = 60's fine filling required. A?is. 

To Find Average Counts of Filling in a Cloth Con= 
taining 2 or more Counts of Filling. 

Rule 38. Divide the number of picks of each 
counts per pattern by its own coti7its; add the re- 
sults and divide itito the total number of picks per 
pattern. 

Example. A cloth contains 38 picks of 15's 
and 360 picks of 60's filling in one pattern. 
What is the average counts of the filling ? 

38 picks ^ 15's counts = 2.533 
360 picks -^ 60's counts = 6. 



398 8.533 

398 -i- 8.533 = 46.64 average counts, Ans. 



46 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



AVERAGE COUNTS OF YARN IN THE 
CLOTH. 

Cotton cloths are based on the number of 
yards per lb with a given width, sley and pick. 

It is customary, first, to find the average num- 
ber of yarn in the cloth and then to assume the 
counts of warp. 

In coarse grades of cloth the warp and filling 
are about equal, whilst in the finer grades the 
filling is considerably finer than the warp. 

In all average counts of j^arn calculations the 
number of single 3'arns are considered ; for ex- 
ample, 50 ends of 3/24 would be considered 150 
ends of 24's single, not 50 ends of 8's. 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Piece of Cloth 
when Ends in Warp, Pick, Width in Reed and 
Number of Yards per Pound are Known. 

Assume a certain length of cut and apply 

Rule 39. Divide le7igth of cut by nuinber of 
yards per pound. 

This gives weight of cut. 

Multiply the number of ends by the slashing- 
length. 

This gives length of warp, to which a certain 
% must be added for size, if the latter is used, 
consider size as yarn. 

Mtiltiply the pick by the width at the reed ayid 
the cloth or cut length. 

This gives length of filling. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 47 

Add length of zvarp to length of filling and 
divide by 840 and zveight of cut = A?is. 

Example. A cloth contains 300 ends of 
2/20's, 200 ends of 4/28's and 2400 ends of 40's, 
80 picks per inch. It was woven 32 inches wide 
in reed, and weighs 4.52 yards per pound. 
Allowing 20 9^ for contraction on the 2/20's 
warp, 15 ^/c on the 4/28's warp, and 10 % for 
contraction and size on the 40 's warp. What 
are the average counts? 

Assume a 100 3^ard cut. 
100 yards cloth ^ 4.52 yards per ft = 22.12 lbs. 

weight of cut. 
300 ends of 2/20's = 600 ends. 
200 ends of 4/28's = 800 ends. 
2400 ends of 40's = 2400 ends. 

600 ends X 120 vards = 72000 vards 20's 

800 ends X 115 yards =^ 92000 yards 28 's 

2400 ends X 110 yards = 264000 yards 40's 

80 pick X 32 in. X 100 yds. = 256000 vds. filling 



684000 total 

length of yarn. 
684000 yards ^^ „ 

840 X 22.12 lbs. = ^^-^ ^''^'^^^ ^°^^'^' ^^'- 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Piece of Cloth 
when Sley, Pick, Width and Yards per Pound 
are Known. 

Rule 40. Add sley and pick together; imdtiply 
restilt by width a7id yards per pouyid, and divide 
by 840. 

This rule does not make atiy allozva?ice for size 
ro contraction. (See Rule 41.) 



48 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

Example. A cloth is made 96 X 100, 80 
inches wide and weighs 12 yards per Ife. What 
are the average counts? 

100 + 96 == 196 

196 X 30 inches X 12 yards 

^-7-^ = 84 av. counts, 

^*^ Ans. 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Cloth wlien 
Sley, Pick, Width and Number of Yards per 
Pound are Known. 

Rule 41 . Multiply the sum of the sley atid pick 
by the width and numbe?'- of yards per pound and 
divide by 764. (See constants.) 

This rule allows 10 f/f for contraction and 
size. (See Rule 40.) 

Example. A cloth 96 X 220, 40 inches wide 
weighs 3.6 yards per pound. What is the aver- 
age counts of the 3^arn? 

96 sley + 220 pick = 316 
316 X 40 inches X 3.6 yards per tb _„ _ 

764 ='59.5 av. 

'""* counts, Ans. 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Cloth when 
Sley, Pick and Counts of Warp and Filling are 
Known. 

Rule 42. Divide sley by warp counts and 
pick by filling counts. Add results and divide 
into sum of sley and pick. 

Example. A cloth 96 X 220 is made with 
45 's warp and 70' s filling. What is the average 
counts of the yarn? 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 49 

96 sley ^ 45's counts = 2.13 
220 pick -r- 70's counts = 3.14 

316 5.27 

816 -f- 5.27 = 60's average counts, Ans. 

The preceding rules, 40, 41, 42, may be used 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn In a Cloth when 
Only One Warp Counts is Used In a Cramped 
Stripe, 

by substituting ' ' average sley " for " sley ' ' . 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn In a Cloth Con= 
taining more than One Counts of Warp Yarn, 
when Width, Warp Counts, Number of Ends of 
each Counts In Warps, Pick and Filling Counts 
are Known. 

Rule 43, Multiply the pick by the cloth ividth 
= A. 

Divide A by the filling counts = B. 

Divide the number of ends of each counts by its 
own counts ■=^ C. 

Total nuviber of ends = D. 

Divide sum of A arid D by sum of B and C 
= Ans. 

Example. A cloth is made as follows: 80 
ends of 3/30's, 2200 ends of 60's, 100 picks of 
75 's filling, 30 inches wide. What is the aver- 
age counts of the yarns ? 

80 ends of 3/30's = 240 ends of 30's 



50 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

100 picks X 30 inches = 3000 = A 
3000 -- 75 = 40 = B 

240 ^ 30 = 8 = C ) ^ 
2200 ^ 60 = 36.66 = C I" ^ 
240 + 2200 = 2440 = D' 
3000 + 2440 = 5440 
"40 + 8 + 36.66 = 84.66 
5440 H- 84.66 = 64 av. counts, Ans. > <■ 
Rule 43 assumes a normal contraction in 
length and width. If the -cloth is a leno, lap- 
pet or any style where excessive rate of contrac- 
tion occurs on some ends ail allowance must be 
made for the same. For example, if it was 
necessary to allow say 140 yards of 3/30' s warp 
in the preceding example for 100 yards of cloth 
i. e. to add 40 %, the first part of C would be 
worked out as follows : 

240 -- 30 = 8; 8 + 40 f^, = 11.2 
The average counts in this case would of 
course be different from the answer to the pre- 
ceding example. 

Another rule dealing with the same factors is 

Rule 44. Divide the average sley by the aver- 
age warp cotints and the pick by the filling counts; 
add the results and divide into the surn of the 
average sley and the pick. 

The average sley may be found by Rule 48. 
The average w^arp counts may be found by 
Rule 19. 

Example. A cloth is made as follows: 80 
ends of 3/30's, 2200 ends of 60's, 100 picks of 
75 's filling, 30 inches wide. What is the aver- 
age counts of the yarns? 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 51 

80 ends of 3/30's = 240 ends of 30's 
240 + 2200 = 2440 total ends 
2440 ends ^ 30 inches = 81.333 av. sley 

240 ends -^ 30's counts = 8 
2200 ends -^ 60's counts = 36.666 



2440 44.666 

2440 ends -^ 44.666 = 54.6's av. warp counts 

81.333 av. slev ^ 54.6's av. warp = 1.489 
100 pick -- 75's filling = 1.333 



181.333 2.822 

181.333 -^ 2.822 = 64's av. counts, Ans. 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Cloth when 
% Warp, % Filling and Counts of Warp and 
Filling are Known. 

Rule 45. Mtdtiply the % warp by the warp 
counts and the (^q filling by the filling cotints ; add 
the products. . 

Example. A cloth of which 54 % of the 
material is warp and 46 % filling is made with 
50 's warp and 60's filling. What is the average 
counts of the yarn ? 

54 f/c X 50' s warp counts = 27.00 
46 ''/, X 60's filling counts =27.60 



' A V. counts, b-i.&Q's Ans. 

Example. What is the average counts of 
the single yarns in a cloth in which 24 % of the 
yarn is 3/20's warp, 14 % is 4/28's warp, 37 '^/r 
is 40's warp, and 25 % is 50's filling? 



52 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCUIvATIONS 

24 % X 20's warp counts = 4.80 
14 % X 28's warp counts = 3.92 
37 % X 40's warp counts = 14.80 

25 % X 50's filling counts = 12.50 

Av. counts, 36.02 Ans. 

To Find Average Counts of Yarn from a Small 
Piece of Cloth. 

Rule 46. Multiply the sum of the sley and 
pick by the number of square inches weighed and 
by 7000 and divide by the tveight in grains^ by 
36 and 764. (See constants.) 

In Rule 46, 7000, 36 and 764 are constant 
factors 

7000 

— z^4 

36 X 764 

therefore the 36 and 764 can be dispensed with 
and .254 used instead of 7000, giving 

Rule 47. Multiply the sum of the sley and 
pick by the number of square inches weighed a7id 
by .254 and divide by the weight in grains. 

Example. 4 sq. inches of a piece of cloth 
96 X 220 weighs 5.4 grains. What are the 
average counts of the yarn ? 

96 +220 = 316 

316 X 4 sq. in. X .254 _ ,_ ^ . 

^— i — ^ 59.45 av. counts, A.ns. 

5.4 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 58 



AVERAGE COUNTS OF CLOTH. 

To Find Average Sley when Number of Ends in 
warp and Width of Cloth are Known. 

Rule 48. Divide the munber of ends by the 
'width. 

Example. A cloth 32 inches wide contains 
2240 ends. What is the average sley ? 

2240 ends -4- 32 in. = 70 av. sley, Ans. 

In finding average sleys, pl}^ yarns are counted 
as the number of single yarns there are twisted 
together ; 200 3 ply yarns would be counted as 
600 singles. 

Example. A cloth 28 inches wide contains 
2000 ends of single yarn and 36 ends of 4 pl}^ 
cord yarn. What is the average sley? 

36 X 4 = 144 single strands in the 36 pl}^ 
yarns. 

144 + 2000 = 2144 total ends. 
2144 ends -f- 28 ins. = 76.57 av. sley, Ans. 

To Find Average Sley in an Unequally Reeded 
Stripe when Actual Sley and Warp Layout 
are Given. 

Rule 49 Multiply the number of ends per 
pattern by one half of the sley and divide by the 
number of den ts per pa ttern . 



54 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

Example. The warp pattern in a piece of 
cloth contains 70 ends and occupies 16 dents of 
a 56 sley reed. What is the average sley? 

70endsX28 (^of sleyreed) ^^^^ ^ 

-.^ , — r^- :i = 122.5 av. sley, 

16 dents m one patter.i Ans 

To Find the Average Picks per Incli, when Check 
Pegs are Used, when Number of Pegs, Picks per 
Pattern, and Number of Ground Picks per Inch 
are Known. 

Rule 50 Deduct the number of check pegs in 
one repeat of the pattern from the iiumber of picks 
per pattern ; divide the result into picks per pat- 
tern, and multiply by the picks per inch that the 
loom wo2dd put in if check pegs were not used. 

Example. A check pattern 196 picks per 
pattern, requiring 64 check pegs, is being woven 
with a pinion gear that would give 84 picks per 
inch if check pegs were not used. What is the 
average pick ? 

196 picks per pattern — 64 check pegs ^ 132 
196 -=- 132 = 1.484 X 84 = 124.65 av. pick, 

Ans. 

The above rule assumes 1 tooth to be taken up 
every pick. If a loo7n that takes tip every 2 picks 
is used, rtiultiply the 7iumber of check pegs by 2 
and proceed as above. 

To Find Average Picks per Inch when Check Pegs 
are Used, when Number of Picks per Pattern, 
and Size of Pattern are Known. 

Rule 51. Divide the number of picks per pat- 
tern by the size of the pattern . 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS O;) 

Example. The filling pattern in a cloth 
measures If inches and contains 160 picks. 
What is the average pick ? 

160 picks -r- 1.375 inches := 116 av. pick, A71S. 

When measuring the size of the pattern it is 
advisable to use a rule graded in tenths and 
twentieths of an inch. (See pages on cloth 
analysis.) 

Rule 51 substituting the word ends for picks 
may be applied 

To Find the Average Sley. 

In dealing with average pick when figuring 
production every time the shuttle goes across is 
termed one pick, whether carrying single or ply 
yarns. It will be necessarj^ to consider this onl}- 
on box loom patterns. 




56 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



CALCULATIONS FOR CHECK PEG PATTERNS. 

See also "Average counts of cloths." 

To Find the Number of Ground Picks per Inch in a 
Cloth, when the Average Pick, Number of Teeth 
Used per Pattern, and the Number of Picks per 
Pattern are Known. 

Rule 52. Multiply the average pick by the 
number of teeth used in one repeat of the pattern, 
a7id by 2 {if the loom takes up eve?y 2 picks), and 
divide by the picks per pattern. 

Example. A check pattern 196 picks to one 
repeat takes up ^^ teeth, in a loom that takes 
up 1 tooth in 2 picks ; the average pick is 
124.65. What is the number of ground picks 
per inch ? 

124.65 av. pick X 66 teeth X 2 

^TT^ — r-j ^83.9 ground 

196 picks per pattern p^^j^^ ^^^ -^^^^^ 

Ans. 

To Find Numbers of Check Pegs to Use per Pat- 
tern when Ground Pick, Average Pick and Size 
of Pattern are Known. 

Rule 53. Deduct the ground pick from the 
average pick and multiply the result by the size 
of the pattern in inches. 

This rule assumes 1 tooth to 1 pick. If 1 
tooth is taken up ever}^ 2 picks divide the re- 
sult by 2. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 57 

Example. A cloth is made with a pattern 
H inches; the ground pick is 84 and the aver- 
age pick 124. How many check pegs must be 
used per pattern, assuming 2 picks to 1 tooth? 

124 average pick 
84 ground pick 

40 

40 X 1.5 = 60 ; 60 ^ 2 = 30 pegs required, 

A?is. 

To Find Number of Check Pegs to Use in a Pat= 
tern when Ground PicJc, Average Pick and 
Number of Picks per Pattern are Known. 

Rute 54. Multiply the number of picks per 
pattern by the number of ground picks per inch 
mid divide by the average pick. Deduct result 
from number of picks per pattern = Ans. 

This rule assumes 1 tooth to 1 pick. If 1 
tooth is taken up every 2 picks divide result 
by 2. 

Example. A cloth is desired 98 average 
pick and 70 pick, assuming 1 tooth take-up to 

1 pick. There are 40 picks per pattern. How 
many check pegs per pattern must be used ? 

40 picks per pattern X 70 ground pick 

98 average pick 

40 picks per pattern — 28.57 = 11.43, say 11 
teeth stopped, Ans. 

If the take-up in the above example had been 

2 picks to 1 tooth 6 teeth per pattern would have 
to be stopped. 



58 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



CLOTH CONTRACTION AND REED CALCULA=. 
TIONS. 

There are two things to be remembered when 
making calculations. 

First, The cloth is always shorter than the 
warp from which it was woven, due to the take 
up by its being bent around the filling. 

Second, The cloth is always narrower than 
what the warp is spread in the reed. 

Although rules that have been proved prac- 
tical may be given to find the different items 
necessary for the reproduction of a piece of cloth 
it must be understood that only approximate 
results can be obtained. 

The cloths from two looms working side by 
side may, and do produce cloths that vary either 
in length or width, or both, under apparent^ 
the same conditions. 

If a correct percentage is not allowed for con- 
traction in width two faults occur in the cloth. 

First, The cloth does not come out the de- 
sired width. 

Second, The correct sley is not obtained. 

The following factors will modify to some 
extent the amount of contraction in length or 
width from warp to cloth. 

The Weave. The oftener the interlacings the 
more the shrinkage. For example, a plain cloth 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 59 

Fig. 1. 



Fig. 2. 

which interlaces as shown in Fig. 1 will require 
a longer warp than a 5 end warp sateen shown 
in Fig. 2 to produce a cloth of the same length, 
provided an equal number of picks per inch are 
used in each. The circles in Figs. 1 and 2 
represent picks. 

If some ends weaving a sateen stripe were run 
from the same beam as other ends weaving plain 
all being reeded 2 in a dent, the ends weaving 
plain would take up faster than the sateen por- 
tion and either break by an excess of tension or 
cause the latter to weave slack and be broken 
b}^ the shuttle, but if the sateen was reeded 4 in 
a dent and the plain 2 in a dent the take up 
would be about equal. 

The finer the quality and the softer the filling 
as compared with the warp the more will be the 
shrinkage in width. 

If the filling is hard twisted and of a coarse 
nature, or coarser than the warp, the cloth will 
not shrink much in width. 

The more tension on the warp yarns the 
longer will be the cloth and the narrower the 
width, up to a certain limit. 

The difference in weather, system of sizing, 
class of loom used, tension on filling yarns, or 



60 PRACTICAI. COTTON CALCULATIONS 

sley and pick as compared with each other also 
varies the amount of shrinkage. 

The yarns in weaves of the cord type, where 
several ends or picks work together act like 
coarse yarns and tend to retain a straight line, 
the other yarns doing all the bending. 



CONTRACTION IN LENGTH FROM WARP TO 
CLOTH. 

To Find Approximate % of Contraction in Length 
from Warp to Cloth. 

Rule 55. Multiply the pick by 3.5 and divide 
by the counts of the filling . 

For cloths wove7i with counts lozver than 50's 
multiply by 4 instead of 3.5. 

Example. A plain cloth is made 100 X 120 
with 80 's warp and 90 's filling. What would 
be the approximate % of contraction in length 
from warp to cloth ? 

120 picks X 3.5 ,., , . , 

— tttt: — p^TT^ ^ 44 % contraction, Ans. 

90 's filling ' 

To Find Length of Warp Required for a Given 
Length of Cloth in Lenos, Lappets, Fancy Com= 
binations, and all Cloths where some Ends 
Take Up Considerably Faster than Others. 

Rule 56. Measure a certain length of cloth 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS (U 

Unravel the ends required and measure them 
= B. 

Multiply the length of cloth desired, by B and 
divide by A = Ans. 

Example. The yarns from a cloth 5 inches 
long, are 5^ inches long. How many yards of 
warp would be required for a 50-yard cut of 
cloth ? 

5.5 in. X 50 yards __ , . 

— ^ =r 55 yards, Ans. 

5 in. 

Where there is considerable difference in the 
take-up of the ends in a cloth, two or more 
warp beams must be used. 



^ 




G2 PRACTICAL COTTON CAI,CUI.ATIOjn& 



REED CALCULATIONS. 

The 4 following examples are given to illus- 
trate how the shrinkages in width vary in cloths 
of different structure. 

Sample No. 1. 62 sley X 32 pick, 90's warp 
and 140's filling, plain weave, 40 inches in the 
reed, gives 39 inches cloth. 

The reed width here is almost 3 % more than 
the cloth width. The reason for this small con- 
traction is on account of the small number of 
picks as compared to sle3^ 

Sample No. 2. _ 48 X 128, 3/40's warp and 
48 's filling, 31^ inches in the reed gives 28 
inches cloth. 

The reed width here is over 11 % more than 
the cloth width. This excessive contraction is 
caused by the large pick, as compared to sley. 

Sample No. 3. 64 X 40, 48's warp and 15's 
filling, 33 inches in the reed gives 32 inches 
cloth. 

The reed width here is 3s 9( more than the 
cloth width. 

Sample No. 4. 88 X 50, 48's warp and 2/15's 
filling, 34 inches in the reed gives 33^ inch 
cloth. 

The reed width here is li % more than the 
cloth width. 

The small contraction in samples 3 and 4 is 
caused by the light pick and heavy filling. 

The samples just noted are unusual structures 
of cloth, and are only mentioned to show how 
the contraction in width varies in amount. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 68 

The following rules relating to contraction in 
width are approximately correct, for cloths 
where the sley and pick, and warp and filling, 
are nearly equal. 

It is usually understood when dealing with 
reed and sley calculations that 2 ends in each 
dent are intended, unless otherwise stated. 

For certain reasons cloths are sometimes 
woven wdth oiil}' one end in a dent ; at other 
times they are woven 3 or 4 ends in a dent. 

To Find Number of Dents per Inch in Reed to 
Produce a Given 5ley. 

Rule 57. Deduct 1 from the sley and divide 
by one of the following numbers. 



Ends per dent in reed 


Divide by number 




1 


1.05 




2 


2.1 




3 


3.15 




4 


4.2 


Example. Find the number of dents per 


inch in 


the reed to give 


a 100 sley cloth by hav- 


ing 1, 2 


, 3 or 4 ends per 


dent. 


Ends per 






dent 




Constant Dents per in. 


in reed 


Slav 


divisor in reed 


1 


100-1 = 99; 


99 ^1.05 = 94.28 ^^.j. 


2 


100 - 1 = 99; 


99-- 2.1 =^7.14: Ans. 


3 


100-1 = 99; 


99^ 3.15 = 31.43 .4^,?. 


4 


100-1 = 99; 


99 -f- 4.2 =23.57 Ans. 



64 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



Table showing number of dents per inch in 
the reed to produce an}^ even numbered sley 
from 48 to 132. 





DENTS PEK INCH IN REED 


SLEY 


1 End per 


2 Ends pek 


3 Ends per 


4 Ends per 




Dknt 


Dent 


Dent 


Dent 


48 


44.76 


22.38 


14.92 


11.19 


50 


46.66 


23.33 


15.55 


11.66 


52 


4856 


24.28 


16.19 


12.14 


54 


50.48 


25.24 


16.83 


12.62 


56 


52.38 


26 19 


17.46 


13.09 


58 


54.28 


27.14 


18.09 


13.57 


60 


56.18 


28.09 


18.73 


14.04 


62 


58.10 


29.05 


19.03 


14.52 


64 


60.00 


30.00 


20.00 


15.00 


66' 


61.90 


30.95 


20.63 


15.47 


68 


63.82 


31.91 


21.27 


15.95 


70 


65.72 


32 86 


21.91 


16.43 


72 


67.64 


33 82 


22 55 


16.91 


74 


69.52 


34.76 


23.17 


17.38 


76 


71.42 


35.71 


23.81 


17.85 


. 78 


73.32 


36.66 


24.44 


18 33 


80 


75.24 


37.62 


25.08 


18 81 


82 


77 18 


38.59 


25.73 


19.29 


84 


79.04 


39.52 


26.35 


19.76 


86 


80 96 


40.48 


26.99 


20.24 


88 


82.86 


41.43 


27.65 


20 71 


90 


84.76 


42.38 


28.25 


21.19 


92 


86.68 


43.34 


28.89 


2167 


94 


88 58 


44.29 


29.53 


22.14 


96 


90.50 


45.25 


30 17 


22.62 


98 


92.40 


46.20 


30.80 


2310 ■ 


100 


94.28 


47.14 


31.43 


23.57 


102 


96.20 


48.10 


32.07 


24.05 


104 


98.12 


49.06 


32.91 


24.53 


IOC 


100.00 


50.00 


33.33 


25.00 


108 


101.90 


50.95 


33.97 


25.47 


110 


103.80 


51.90 


34.60 


25.95 


112 


105.72 


52.86 


35.24 


26.43. 


114 


107.62 


53 81 


35.87 


26.90 


116 


109.52 


54.76 


36.51 


27.38 


118 


111.42 


55.71 


37.14 


27.85 • 


120 


113.32 


56.66 


37.77 


28.33 


122 


115.24 


57.62 


38.41 


28.81 


124 


117.14 


58.57 


39.05 


29.28 


126 


119.04 


59.52 


39.68 


29.76 


128 


120.95 


60.47 


40.32 


30.24 


130 


122.85 


61.43 


40.95 


30.71 


132 


124.76 


62.38 


41.59 


.31.19 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 65 

There are various methods of marking reeds 
adopted in the cotton tra'de, two of which are as 
follows: 1st — By indicating the total dents on a 
certain number of inches. 2nd — By marking 
the sley on the side of the reed. Sometimes 
reeds are marked by both of the above methods. 
If the nunaber of dents on a certain number of 
inches are known it is only necessary to divide 
the total dents by the number of inches to find 
the number of dents per inch. 

To Find Sley that would be Woven with a Reed of 
a Given Number of Dents per Inch. 

Rule 56. Multiply the number of dents pei' 
inch by 07ie of the following nurnbers and add one. 

Ends per dent in reed. Multiply by number 

1 1.05 

2 2.1 

3 3.15 

4 4.2 

Example. What sley cloth would be woven 
with a reed containing 40 dents per inch, with 
2 ends per dent? 

40 dents X 2.1 = 84 
84 + 1 = 85 sley cloth, Ans. 

To Find Sley Reed to Use for Unequally Reeded 
Patterns such as Bedford Cords, Lenos, Dimi^ 
ties. Stripes, etc. 

Rule 57. Multiply the desired average sley by 
the number of dents per pattern and by 5, and 
divide by the number of ends per pattern. 

Example No. 1. A warp pattern in a piece 
of cloth is found to be reeded 2 ends in 1 dent, 



66 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

12 ends in 3 dents, and there are 8 patterns in 
1 incli. What sley reed should be used to repro- 
duce it ? 

14 ends per pattern X 8 patterns per inch 
^112 average sley. 

112 X 4 dents per patt. X 2 ^, , ^ ^ 

zr-. \ n = o* sley reed, w??^. 

14 ends per patt. 

Example No. 2. It is desired to make a 
cloth 125 average sley, with the warp reeded 64 
single ends in 32 dents; 4 singles and a 3 ply 
yarn in 1 dent, 2 empty dents, 4 singles and a 
3 ply yarn in 1 dent. What sley reed should be 
used? 

3 ply yarns count as 3 singles in considering 
the average sley. 

125 av. sley X 35 dents per patt. X 2_ 

— ^To J ^L —112, Ans. 

78 ends per patt. sley reed 

To Find Width of Warp at the Reed when Width 
of Cloth and Sley are Known. 

Rule 60. Multiply the width of the cloth by 
the sley and divide by the man ber of dents per inch 
in the reed ajid the number of e7ids per dent. 

See reed table on page 64. 

Example. It is desired to weave an 88 sley 
cloth 32 inches wide. How wide should the 
warp be spread in the reed ? 

An 88 sley cloth, 2 ends per dent, would be 
woven in a reed with 41.43 dents per inch. 

32 inches X 88 sley ^„ „„ . 

,, ,^ , -. — : -^ ?: =33.98 m., say 

41.43 dents per in. m reed X 2 34 in. Arts. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 67 

To Find Number of Dents Occupied by an Equally 
Reeded Warp. 

Rule 61, Divide the number of ends, less, sel- 
vedges, by the number of ends per dent and add 
the 7iecessary number of dents for selvedge. 

Example. How many dents would be re- 
quired for a warp of 2840 ends, 2 ends per dent, 
allowing 48 ends in 12 dents for selvedges? 

2840 ends — 48 for selvedges = 2792 ends 
2792 ^ 2 = 1396 dents 
1396 dents -f 12 for selvedges = 1408 dents, 

Ans. 



CLOTH ANALYSIS. 

For the convenience of those persons whose 
duty it is to analyze fancy cotton fabrics the 
figure at the top of page 69, which represents 
a 2 inch rule graded in lOths and 20ths, as well 
as the table on the same page, have been 
inserted. 

As previously stated in this book it is advis- 
able to measure the various sections with a rule 
graded in lOths and 20ths of an inch because 
there are less figures than when using other 
divisions of an inch. 

A small pair of dividers should be used, when 
analyzing fabrics, to measure the various sec- 
tions successively. 

If the sample is to be duplicated in a different 
sley the dents in the required sley for any width 
of cloth from 1/20 inch to 1 inch may be seen in 
the table on page 69. 



68 PRACTICAI. COTTON CALCULATIONS 

A B CD 



Fig. 1. 

For example, suppose it is desired to make a 
pattern like F^'ig. 1, in an 80 sley reed the pro- 
cedure will be as follows : 

First — Measure section A, and ascertain how 
many dents are necessar3^ A, in Fig. 1, 
measures 16/20 of an inch. This width of an 
80 sley would require 32 dents. 

Second — Measure each defining part of the 
pattern separately and ascertain from the table 
how many dents each section requires. B = 
19/20 of an inch = 38 dents. C = 16/20 of an 
inch = 32 dents. D = 6/20 of an inch = 12 
dents. 

Third — Measure one complete pattern and 
ascertain how many dents are required. One 
pattern in Fig. 1 = 2 17/20 inches = 114 dents. 

The reason for measuring the full pattern is 
to prove that the various small sections are cor- 
rect. The sum total of the dents in each small 
section in one pattern should be similar to that 
obtained by measuring a complete pattern. 
There is a great liability to error when measur- 
ing several small sections, but it is necessar}^ 
that each section should be measured separately. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 09 









D 








Z 








M 








ffi 








H 








w 








H 








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22.8 

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49.4 

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53.2 




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21.6 

23.4 

25.2 

27 

28.8 

30.6 

32.4 

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37.8 

39.6 

41.4 

43.2 

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46.8 

48.6 

£0.4 




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20.4 

22.1 

238 

255 

27.2 

28.9 

30.6 

32-3 

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35.7 

37.4 

39.1 

40.8 

42.5 

44.2 

45.9 

47.6 




s 


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19.2 

20.8 

22.4 

24 

25.6 

27.2 

28.8 

30.4 

32 

33.6 

35.2 

36.8 

38.4 

40 

41.6 

43 2 

44.8 




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18 
19.5 

22.5 

24 

25.5 

27 

28.5 

30 

31.5 

33 

34.5 

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37.5 

39 

40.5 

42 




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16.8 

18.2 

19.6 

21 

22.4 

23.8 

25.2 

26.6 

28 

29.4 

30.8 

32.2 

33.6 

35 

36.4 

37.8 

39.2 


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2 


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15.6 

16.9 

18.2 

19.5 

20.8 

22.1 

23.4 

24.7 

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27.3 

28.6 

29.9 

31.2 

32.5 

33.8 

35.1 

36.4 




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14.4 

15.6 

16.8 

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19.2 

20.4 

216 

22.8 

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25.2 

26.4 

27.6 

28.8 

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31.2 

32.4 

33.6 




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14.3 
15.4 
16.5 
17.6 
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28.6 
29.7 
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11.7 

12.6 

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14.4 

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18 

18.9 

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21.7 

22.6 

23.5 

24.4 

25.3 

26.2 




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10.4 
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70 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



WEIGHT, OR NUMBER OF YARDS OF CLOTH 
PER POUND, AND OUNCES PER YARD. 

To Find Number of Ounces per Yard or Yards per 
Pound. 

Rule 62. 16 -=- number of ounces per yard 
■=■ number of yards per pou7id. 

16 -^ 7iumber of yai'ds per poiind = number of 
ounces per yard. 

To Find Number of Yards of Cloth per Pound 
from a Small Portion of Cloth when Analysing 
Fabrics. 

Rule 63. Midtiply the number of square iyiches 
iveighed by 7000 grains and divide by the weight 
in grains^ width of cloth in iyiches., and by 36. 

Example. A cloth is 18.5 inches wide; 6 
square inches weigh 8 grains. How many yards 
are there per pound ? 

7000 grains X 6 inches _ ^^,. , 

o -■ — \, io ~^^^ — "C, ^7^^ = l.^^i yards per 

8 grains X 18.5 inches X 36 Yb Ans 

In Rule 63, 7000 and 36 are constant factors. 
7000 -=- 36 = 194.44, therefore instead of the 
above rule use the following : 

For 1 square inch -r- 194.44 by weight in 
grains and cloth width. 

For 4 square inches -^- 777.77 by weight in 
grains and cloth width. 

For 9 square inches -^ 1750 by weight in 
grains and cloth wddth. 

For 12 square inches -f- 2333.33 by weight in 
grains and cloth width. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS (I 

For cloth cut to any other size use Rule 64. 

To Find Number of Yards per Pound of a Cloth 
Containing Different Counts of Yarns, or Pat- 
terns that are Unequally Reeded ; 

it is necessary to cut a piece of cloth containing 
only full patterns before weighing and proceed- 
ing by 

Rule 64. Multiply 194.44 by the number of 
square inches weighed^ and divide by the iveight 
in grains and the width of the cloth in inches. 

Example. A stripe pattern is reeded 2 ends 
in a dent for 40 ends and 4 ends in a dent for 20 
ends ; the complete pattern in the cloth measur- 
ing f of an inch. A piece 3 inches warp way, 
i. e. lengthway, and 5 patterns fillingway weighs 
6 grains. The width of the cloth desired is 28 
inches. How many yards per pound will the 
cloth weigh ? 

5 patterns X f inches per pattern ^^ 3^ inches 

3i X 3 = 9f sq nare inches weighed 

194.44 X 9.375 inches _,^ ^^ 

~^ '■ w oQ • — t = 10.85 yards per lb, 

6 grains X 28 inches "^ ^ ^'^^^ 

It is advisable to cut a certain number of pat- 
terns on a certain number of inches, if possible, 
to avoid fractions. 

To Find Number of Yards of Cloth per Pound when 
2 or More Warps are Used, when Counts and 
Number of Ends on Each Warp, Contraction of 
and Size on Each Warp, Width in Reed, Pick, 
and Counts of Filling are Known. 

Assume a certain length of cloth, say 100 
yards, and use 



/2 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

Rule 65. Multiply the ends of each counts by 
the slashing le?jgth, and divide by 840 and the 
respective counts ; add to this for size if necessary . 

This gives weight of warp. 

Note. When size is put on a warp, the con- 
traction and size are usually taken together 
when finding weight. 

Multiply the picks per iiich by the cloth width 
and the length of cut, and divide by 840 and the 
counts of the filling . 

This gives weight of filling. 

Add weight of warp and weight of filling 
together and divide into length of cut. = Ajis. 

Example. A cloth is required 28 inches 
wide, made with 100 ends of 3/24's, 200 ends 
of 4/32's, 2500 ends of 50's and 84 picks per 
inch of 60's filling. Allowing 5 % for contrac- 
tion on the 3/24's warp, 45 % for contraction on 
the 4/32's warp, and 10 % for contraction and 
size on the 50 's warp. How man}' yards of 
cloth will there be per ft* ? 

Assume a 100 yard cut. 

100 ends of 3/24's = 300 ends of 24's 
200 ends of 4/28 's = 800 ends of 28's 

300 ends X 105 yds. slashing length 



840 X 24's counts of 3/24's warp 



1.566 lbs 
if 3 

800 ends X 145 yds. slashing length < oi r 

840 X 32's counts of4/32'swa^ 

2500 endsX 110 yds. slashing length ^„ , 

• 840 X 50's counts ~^ 50-3 .^arp 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 73 



For 28 inch cloth, say 30 inch in reed 

84 picks per in. X 30 ins. X 100 yds, cut _ 

840 X 60's filling counts ''~ 

1.566 lbs. of 3/24'swarp 
4.315 " 4/32's " 
6.548 " 50's " 
5.000 " 60 's filling 



5 lbs. of 
filling 



17.429 

100 yd. cut -T- 17.429 lbs. = 5.738 yds. per ft , 

Ans. 

To Find Number of Yards of Cloth per Pound when 
Sley, Pick, Width and Average Counts are 
Known. 

Rule 66. Multiply the average counts by 764 
(See constants) a7id divide by the width and the 
sum of sley and pick. 

Example. A cloth is made 96 X 150 and is 
33^ inches wide; the average counts is 58. How 
many yards of cloth are there in a pound? 

58 average counts X 764 ^ ^ 

ofi 1 i^n vx ~^-Qi ~^ — "L = 5-377 yds. per R) , 

96 + 150 X 33i- inches -^ ^ ^^^_ 

To Find Number of Yards of Cloth per Pound when 
Sley, Pick, Width, Warp and Filling Counts 
are Known. 

Rule 67. Divide sley by ivarp counts = A, 
Divide pick by filling counts =■ B. 
Add A to B = C. 

Divide 764 (See constants) by C and the width 
— Ans. See Rule 68. 



74 PRACTICAL COTTON CAI.CULATIONS 

EXAMPI.E. A cloth is desired 64 X 124, 33i 
inches wide, with 36's warp and 48's filling. 
How many yards will there be in a pound of 
cloth ? 

64^ 36 = 1.77 = A 

124 H- 48 = 2.58 = B 

1.77 + 2.58 = 4.35 = C 

764 

4.35 X 33.5 i il^ = ^-^^ y^""''^ P" *■ ^"^^ 

Another rule dealing with the factors men- 
tioned in the preceding example is as follows : 

Rule 68. Divide the yinmber of hanks for the 
sky and width given o?i the following table by the 
counts of the warp and the filling yarns, add both 
restilts together and allow for contraction and size 
and divide into 100 {yards.) 

Example. A cloth is made 28 inches, 72 X 
68, with 80's warp and lOO's filling; allow 10 % 
for contraction and size. How many yards of 
cloth are there per pound ? 

By examining the table 72 sley cloth, 28 inches 
wide contains 240 hanks of warp. A 68 pick 
cloth contains 226.66 hanks of filling for the 
same width. 

240 hanks warp -^ 80's counts = 3 
226.66 " fillings lOO's " =2.266 

5.266 
add 10 % .526 

Weight of 100 yards of cloth 5.792 lbs. 
100 -f- 5.792 = 17.265 yards per ft), Ans. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 75 

The table on pages 76 and 77 will be found 
useful when finding the weight of warp or filling 
yarns in 100 yards of cloth. Allowance has not 
been made in this table for contraction or size 
as these will vary in different classes of goods. 

To Find Number of Ounces per Yard from a Small 
Piece of Cloth. 

Rule 69. Multiply the width of the cloth in 
ifiches by the iveight of a small piece in grains ajid 
by 36 and divide by 437.5 {grs. per oz.) and tht 
number of square iriches weighed. 

Example. A piece of cloth 4 inches square 
weighs 16 grains. What is the weight in ozs. 
per yard of cloth 28 inches wide ? 

28 inches X 16 grains X 36 ^ ^ 

.orr r- • ZT--,^ • — T — = 2.3 OZS. pcr yd., 

437.5 grains X 16 sq. inches ^ y47Zj- 

In the above rule 36 and 437.5 are constant 
numbers therefore the 36 above the line could 
be dispensed with and 12.152 used instead of 
437.5 below the line. (437.5 grs. per. oz. -f- 36 
inches per yard = 12.152) 

Using the preceding example the working 
would be as follows. 

28 inches X 16 grains _ o o „^<, ^^ ^. ^,„ 
12.152 X 16 sq. inches " ^'^ ''^^- ^^^^ ^^^ ^'"- 



76 PRACTICAL COTTON CAI^CULATIONS 



NUMBER OF HANKS OF YARN, WARP OR 

FILLING, IN 100 YARDS 

OF CLOTH. 



X 

o 

z 

X 

o 
o 

X 




86 66 
99.05 
111.43 
123 81 
136.19 
148.57 
11.0.96 
177.32 
185 71 
198.09 
210.48 
222.86 
235.24 
247 62 
260 
272.38 
284.76 
297.15 
309.53 
321 92 
334.29 
346.66 
359.05 
371.42 
383 81 
396.19 
408. r 7 
420.96 
433.33 


§ 


83.33 
95 24 
107.14 
119.05 
130.95 

154;76 

166.06 

178.57 

190.48 

202.38 

214.28 

2i6.19 

238.1 

250 

261.9 

273.81 

285.72 

297.62 

309.,52 

321.42 

333.33 

345 24 

357.14 

3 '9 05 

380.96 

392.86 

404.76 

416.66 


00 


80 

9143 
102.86 
114 29 
12,5.71 
137 15 
148.57 
160 
171.43 
182.86 
194.29 
205.72 
il7.14 
228.57 
240 
251.42 
262.86 
274 29 
285.72 
297.14 
308.58 
320 
331.43 
342 86 
3.54.28 
365.72 
377.15 
388.58 
400 


<£> 


76.66 
87.62 
98.57 
103.52 
"120.48 
131.43 
142.38 
153.32 
164.29 
175.24 
180.19 
197.14 
208.10 
219.05 
230 
240.96 
251 9 
262.86 
273 81 
284.76 
295.71 
30(i.C6 
317.62 
328.58 
339 52 
350.48 
361.43 
372..38 
383 33 


^ 


73 33 
83.81 
94.28 
104.76 
115.24 
125.72 
130.19 
146.66 
157.14 
167.62 
178.09 
188.56 
199.05 
209.52 
220 
230.48 
240 95 
251.43 
261.9 
272.38 
282.84 
293 33 
303.81 
314.28 
324.76 
335.24 
,-«5.71 
356 18 
366.66 




gg§|S||?||g|||2|g||S§|||2|||| 


"§ 


66.66 
76.19 
85.71 
95.24 
104.76 
114.28 
123.82 
133.32 
142.86 
152.38 
161.91 
171.42 
1.S0.95 
190.48 
200 
2U9.52 
219.04 
2-28.57 

247."61 
257 13 
266 66 
276 19 
285 72 
295.24 
304 76 
314 29 
323 82 
333.33 


CO 
CO 


63.33 
72.38 
81.43 
90 48 
99 52 
103.57 

126.66 

135.72 

144.76 

153 81 

162.86 

171.91 

180.95 

190 

199.04 

208.09 

217.15 

226.19 

235.24 

244.29 

253.33 

2(i2.38 

271.44 

280.47 

289 52 

298.57 

307.62 

316.66 


CO 


60 

68 57 
77.14 
85.71 
94.28 
02.86 
11.42 
20 

28.,57 
37.14 
45.72 
54.28 
62.86 
71.43 
80 

88.56 
97.14 
05.72 
14.28 
22.84 
31.42 
40 

48.57 
57 14 
65.71 
74.28 
82.86 
91.44 
iOO 


_„_„_„„„„_„ .,>...........,.,...-.>.. ... 


CO 


56.66 

64 76 

72 86 

80.95 

89(14 

97.14 

05.23 

03.32 

21.43 

29.52 

37 62 

45 72 

53 81 

61.9 

70 

78.08 

86.18 

94.29 

02.38 

10.46 

18.58 

26.66 

34 70 

42.80 

.50 95 

59.04 

67.14 

75.24 

83.33 




(M 


53.33 
00.95 
68.57 
76.2 
83.81 
91.43 
99.04 
106.66 
114.29 
121.9 
129 .,52 
137.14 
144.76 
152.38 
160 
167.62 
175.24 
182.86 
190.47 
198.08 
205.71 
213.33 
220.95 
228,58 
•236.19 
243.8 
251.42 
259.04 
266.66 


g 


50 

57.14 
64.28 
71.43 
78.57 
85.71 
92.86 
00 

07.14 
14.28 
21 43 
28.56 
;^5.71 
42.86 
50 

57.14 
04.28 
71.43 
78.57 
85.72 
92.84 
00 

07.14 
14 28 
21.42 
28.57 
>35.71 
242.86 
250 




§5 


46.66 
53.33 
60 

73.'33 

86.60 

93.33 

00 

06.66 

13.33 

20 

26 66 

33.33 

40 

46.66 

53.33 

60 

66.66 

73.33 

8<i 

86.66 

93.33 

00 

06.66 

13.33 

20 

26.66 

33.33 


^ ^ ,-. .-^ ,-, — -^ ,-, ^ ,-, — ,-1 ... ^^ .-, v.^ .^ UN 


31 


aid 

HO 

aas 


2;ssgs^Sd5g??^5§s§^^s^ggsgg§gSjg22 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS ( / 



NUMBER OF HANKS OF YARN, WARP OR 

FILLING, IN 100 YARDS 

OF CLOTH. 



i 

g 

H 
H 
O 

o 

o 




445.72 

458.1 

470.48 

482 86 

495.25 

507.62 

520 

532.38 

544.70 

5.57.14 

509.52 

581.91 

594 29 

606.06 

019 00 

031.45 

043.84 

656.21 

608.58 

080.95 

693 33 

705.72 

718.1 

730.47 

742.86 

755.25 

707. ti2 

780 

792.38 


g 


428.50 

440 47 

452 38 

404 29 

470.2 

488.1 

500 

511.90 

523 8 

535.71 

.547.62 

559 53 

,571.43 

5'<3..33 

595 24 

607.14 

619 04 

630 94 

042.84 

654.75 

600 06 

678.57 

690.48 

702. .38 

714 29 

720.2 

738.1 

750 

761.9 


CO 


411.44 

422.86 

434.28 

445.71 

457.15 

468.57 

480 

491.42 

502.84 

514.28 

525.72 

.537.15 

548.57 

500 

57144 

582 86 

594.28 

005.72 

017.10 

028.58 

040 

051 43 

06-' .KO 

674 28 

685.71 

097.15 

708.57 

720 

731.43 




394.28 

405.24 

410.2 

427.15 

438.1 

449.05 

400 

470 96 

481.92 

492.86 

503 8 

514.76 

525.71 

536.00 

547.02 

558.57 

569.,52 

580 47 

591.42 

002 37 

613 33 

624.29 

035.-24 

046.19 

657.14 

668.1 

679.05 

090 

700.96 


-* 


377.12 

387. (il 

398 1 

40H57 

419.05 

429.52 

440 

450 48 

400.96 

471.43 

481 9 

492 38 

502.86 

513.33 

523.8 

534 28 

544.70 

555.22 

505.08 

570.17 

586.06 

5!t7.14 

(i07.62 

61809 

628.57 

039.05 

049.52 

030 

070.48 


(M 


300 
370 
380 
390 
400 
410 
420 
430 
440 
450 
460 
470 
4X0 
^90 
500 
510 
520 
530 
540 
5.50 
500 
570 
580 
590 
000 
010 

030 
040 


o 


342 84 

3,52.37 

361.90 

371.43 

380 95 

390.48 

400 

409.52 

419 04 

428.50 

438.08 

447.01 

4.57.14 

4(i0.06 

470,18 

485.73 

495.28 

504.77 

514.20 

523.79 

533 33 

542.86 

552 38 

561 9 

571.43 

580.96 

590.47 

000 

609.52 


en 

CO 


325.72 

334.77 

343.82 

35i.86 

301.91 

370 

380 

389.04 

398.08 

407.13 

416.18 

425.24 

434.29 

443 33 

452.38 

401. JS 

470.48 

479.53 

488.58 

497.62 

506. 00 

515.72 

524.76 

533 8 

543.^6 

551.91 

500 ;95 

540 

.579.04 


CO 
CO 


308.56 

317 14 

325.72 

334.29 

342.86 

351.43 

300 

30S..56 

377.12 

385.7 

394 28 

402.86 

411.43 

420 

428.56 

437.12 

445.08 

454.20 

402.84 

471.42 

480 

■488 57 

497.14 

505 71 

514 29 

522.86 

.531.43 

540 

548.57 


^ 


291.44 

29J.53 

307.02 

315 71 

323.81 

331.9 

340 

348.08 

350.10 

304 26 

372.36 

380.47 

388.57 

396.66 

404.76 

412.84 

420.92 

429.04 

437 16 

445.24 

453.33 

461.43 

46.^.52 

477.02 

485.71 

493.81 

501.9 

510 

518.09 


g? 


274.28 

281.9 

289.52 

297.14 

304.75 

312.38 

320 

327.62 

335.24 

342,86 

350.48 

358.10 

365 71 

373 33 

380 94 

388.55 

396.16 

403.79 

411.42 

419.04 

426.00 

434.29 

441.9 

449.52 

4.57.14 

404.76 

472 38 

480 

487.61 


g 


2,57.12 

-264.27 

271.42 

278.57 

285.71 

292.86 

300 

307.14 

314.28 

321.42 

328.56 

H35.71 

342.86 

350 

357 14 

364 29 

371.44 

378 50 

385.08 

392.84 

400 

40714 

414 28 

421.42 

428 57 

435.71 

442.85 

450 

457.14 


CO 


210 

210.66 

253.33 

260 

200.06 

273.33 

280 

286.60 

293.33 

300 

306.60 

313.33 

320 

326.66 

333.33 

340 

346.00 

353.33 

300 

3(iC 66 

373 33 

380 

386.66 

3H3.33 

400 

406 60 

413.33 

420 

426.66 


.1 


>IO 
3-IS 


g2^gg§S3§§8g§S§g||3|||22E2|gg|| 



78 PRACTICAL COTTON. CALCULATIONS 



PERCENTAGE OF WARP OR FILLING. 

To Find % of Warp or Filling in a Piece of Cloth 
when Ends in Warp, Pick, Warp, Filling and 
Width of Cloth are Known. 

Ru'e 70. Divide the number of ejids in the 
wai^p by the warp counts = A. 

Micltiply the pick by the width of the cloth ^ and 
divide by the filling counts = B. 

Divide A by sum of A and B for % warp 
= A71S. 

Divide B by sum of A and B for % filling 
=^ Ans. 

Or deduct % wai^p from 100 % for % filling 
= Ans. 

Example. A cloth. 30 inches wide contains 
2160 ends of 60 's warp and 68 picks per inch of 
85's filling. What are the relative percentages 
of warp and filling ? 

2160 ends -^ 60's counts = 36 =A 

68 picks X 30 inches 04^ _ -n 

85 filling counts 

36 + 24 = 60 

36 -4- 60 = .60 or 60 % warp, Ans. 

100 % - 60 % = 40 % filling, Ans. 

To Find % Warp or Filling when Weight of Warp 
and Weight of Cut are Known. 

Rule 71. Divide weight of warp by weight of 
cut for fo warp = Ans. 

Deduct fo warp from 100 % for % filling = 
Ans. 



r 



PRACTICAI. COTTON CAJ.CULATIONS 79 

Example. A ciit of cloth weighing 8 lbs. 
contains 4.8 lbs. of warp. What are the rela- 
tive percentages of warp and filling? 
4.8 lbs. warp ^ by 8 lbs. cut = .60 or 60 % 

warp, Ans. 
100 % - 60 % = 40 % filling, Ans. 

To Find % of Warp or Filling in a Piece of Clotli 
when Sley, Pick, Warp and Filling Counts are 
Known. 

Rule 72, Divide the sley by the warp cou?its 
= A. 

Divide the pick by the filli7ig counts = B. 

Divide A by sum of A a7id B for % warp 
= Afis. 

Divide B by sum of A ajid B for % filling 

= A71S. 

Or deduct ojo "^cirp fro^n 100 % for % fillijig 
= Ans. 

Example. A cloth 72 X 68 is woven with 
60's warp and 85's filling. What are the rela- 
tive percentages of warp and filling ? 

72 sley ^- 60's counts warp= 1.2 = A 

68 pick -^ 85"s counts filling = .8 = B 

1.2+ .8 = 2 

.8^2= .40 or 40 % filling, Ans. 

or 100 - 60 = .40 or 40 % filling, Ans. 

To Find % Warp or Filing in a Piece of Cloth 
when Sley, Pick, Average Counts and Warp 
Counts are Known. 

Rule 7.5. Add sley aiid pick together and 
divide by the average counts =: A. 
Divide sley by warp counts = B. 



80 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCUI.ATIONS 

Divide B by A =^ % warp = Ans. 
Dedicd ofo warp from 100 % for % filling = 
A71S. 

Example. A cloth is made 104 X 112. The 
average number is 90 and the warp 80's. What 
is the fo warp? 

104 sley + 112 pick = 216 -~ 90's average 
counts = 2.4 = A, 

104 sley -^ 80's warp counts = 1.3 = B. 
1.3 ^ 2.4 = 54 % warp, A 71s. 

The preceding rule may be applied to find 
% filling by substituting the filling counts for 
the warp counts and dividing the pick by the 
filling counts to find B. 

Note. If % warp or % filling is found it is 
only necessary to deduct same from 100 % to 
find the % of the other. 

To Find Number of Square Yards in a Piece of 
Cloth. 

Rule 74. Multiply inches in width by length 
in yards and by 35 {inches in a yard) ajid divide 
by 1296 {square inches in a yard). 

Example. How many square yards are 
there in a piece of cloth 42 inches wide and 56 
yards long? 

42 inches X 56 yards X 36 inches ^ ^ 

1296 sq. ins. in a sq. yd. "yds.^'Ans. 

In the above rule 35, inches to a yard, and 
1296, square inches to a square yard, are con- 
stant factors ; by dividing 1296 by 36 the result 
is 36 which can be used as a constant, and the 
36 and 1296 dispensed with, giving 



PRACTICAI. COTTON CAJXULATIONS 81 

Rule 74 A. Multiply width in inches by 
length in yards and divide by 36. 

Using the preceding example the working 
would be as follows : 

42 inches X 56 yards „_, , ^ 
— ::= bo.V sq. yards, Ans. 



TWISTS PER INCH IN YARNS. 

The number of turns or twists per inch to put 
into yarns varies somewhat according to the 
quality of the material used and the use to 
which the yarn is to be subjected. 

The following list is copied from two of the 
leading textile journals of England, "The 
Textile Manufacturer," and "The Texlil2 
Recorder," and may be said to be the generally 
accepted standard of twists per inch in England. 

Hosiery, sq. root of counts of yarn X 2.5 to 2.75 

Filling, (Medium) sq. root of counts of yarn 
X 3.25. 

Filling, (Fine) sq. root of counts of yarn 
X 3.183. 

Warp, (Medium) sq. root of counts of yarn 
X 3.75. 

Warp, (Fine) sq. root of counts of yarn 
X 3.606. 

Warp, (Extra hard ring) sq. root of counts of 
yarn X 4. 

Warp, (Sea Island stock) sq. root of counts 
of yarn X 4.75. 



82 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

The square roots of the counts, from 1 to 140, 
will be found in the tables on pages 83 and 84. 

The following list shows the number of turns 
per inch that are generally accepted as standards 
in the United States. 

Hosiery, sq. root of counts of yarn X 2.75. 
Mule Filling, sq. root of counts of yarn X 3.25. 
" Warp, " " " X3.75. 

" " (Extra) sq. root of counts of 

yarn X 4.00. 

Ordinary Warps, sq. root of counts of yarn 
X 4.75. 

The preceding twist constants are practically 
used only for guidance. 

When a progressive mill management starts 
out to get a yarn suitable for a given purpose 
they experiment and vary the amount of twist 
until a satisfactory result is obtained . 

Although warp yarn is usually twisted more 
than filling there are very large mills that do not 
use a constant greater than 3-25 for warp yarn. 



TWIST TABLE. 

On pages 83 and 84 will be found Draper's 
twist table. This shows the square roots of all 
counts from 1 to 140, also the number of turns 
per inch for the last four kinds of yarn in the 
U. S. list. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



83 



TWIST TABLE. 



Shoiring the square mo 


of the nun 


here or cou 


ts from 1 to 


140 huks 


u the ponod 


1. 




with (he twist per 


.Dch for diffeient kinds of yarn. 




Count! 


^r 


Ordinary 




Eitra 


Mule^Warp 


Mule 






Warp 


Warp 


Mule Warp 


rilling 




Numbers 


Twist. 


Twist 


Twist. 


Twist. 




1 


1.0000 


4.75 


4.50 


4.00 


3.75 


3.25 




2 


1.4142 


6.72 


6.36 


5.66 


5.30 


4.60 




3 


1.7321 


8.23 


7.79 


6.93 


0.50 


5.63 




4 


2.0000 


9.50 


9.00 


8.00 


7.50' 


6.50 




6 


2.2361 


10.62 


10.06 


8.94 


8.30 


7.27 






2.4495 


11.64 


11.02 


9.80 


9.19 


7.96 




7 


2.0458 


12.57 


11.91 


10.58 


9.92 


8.60 




8 


2.8284 


13.44 


12.73 


11.31 


10.61 


9.19 




9 


3.0000 


14.25 


13.50 


12.00 


11.25 


9.75 




S? 


3.1023 


15.02 


14.23 


12.65 


11.86 


10.28 




3.3100 


15.75 


14.92 


13.27 


12.44 


10.78 




12 


3.4041 


16.45 


15.59 


13.86 


12.99 


11.26 




13 


s.oor.G 


17.13 


16.22 


14.42 


13.52 


11.72 




14 


3.7417 


17.77 


16.84 


14.97 


14.03 


12.16 




15 


3.8730 


18.40 


17.43 


15.49 


14.52 


12.59 




16 


4.0000 


19.00 


18.00 


16.00 


15.00 


13.00 




17 


4.1231 


19.58 


18.55 


10.49 


15.40 


13.40 




18 


4.2426 


20.15 


19.09 


1G.97 


15.91 


13.79 




19 


4.3589 


20.70 


19.62 


17.44 


16.35 


14.17 






4.4721 


21.24 


20.12 


17.89 


16.77 


14:53 




21 


4.5826 


21.77 


20.62 


18.33 


17.18 


14.89 




22 


4.G904 


22.28 


21.11 


18.76 


17.59 


15.24 




23 


4.7958 


22.78 


21.58 


19.18 


17.98 


15.59 




24 


4.8090 


23.27 


22.05 


19.60 


18.37 


15.92 




25 


5.0000 


23.75 


22.60 


20.00 


18.75 


16.25 




26 


5.0990 


24.22 


22.95 


20.40 


19.12 


16.57 




27 


5.19C2 


24.68 


23.38 


20.78 


19.49 


16.89 




28 


5.2915 


25.13 


23.81 


21.17 


19.84 


17.20 




29 


5.3852 


25.58 


24.23 


21.54 


20.19 


17.50 




30 


5.4772 


20.02 


24.65 


21.91 


20.54 


17.80 




31 


5.5678 


20.45 


25.05 


22.27 


20.88 


18.10 






5.6569 


26.87 


25.40 


22.63 


21.21 


18.38 




33 


5.7446 


27.29 


25.85 


22.98 


21.54 


18.67 




34 


5.8310 


27.70 


26.24 


23.32 


21.87 


18.95 




35 


5.9161 


28.10 


26.62 


23.66 


22.19 


19.23 




36 


6.0000 


28.50 


27.00 


24.00 


22.50 


19.50 




37 


6.0828 


28.89 


27.37 


24.33 


22.81 


19.77 




38 


6.1644 


29.28 


27.74 


24.66 


23.12 


20.03 




39 


6.2450 


29.66 


28.10 


24.98 


23.42 


20.30 




40 


6.3240 


30.04 


28.46 


25.30 


23.72 


20.55 




41 


6.4031 


30.41 


28.81 


25.61 


24.01 


20.81 




42 


6.4807 


30.78 


29.16 


25.92 


24.30 


21.0c, 




4? 


6..5574 


31.15 


29.51 


26.23 


24.59 


21.31 




44 


6.6332 


31.51 


29.85 


26.53 


24.87 


21.56 




45 


6.7082 


31.86 


30.19 


26.83 


25.16 


21.80 




46 


6.7823 


32.22 


30.52 


27.13 


25.43 


22.04 




47 


6.8557 


32.50 


30.85 


27.42 


25.71 


22.28 




48 


6.9282 


32.91 


31.18 


27.71 


25.98 


22.52 




tP 


7.0000 


33.25 


31.50 


28.00 


26.25 


22.75 




50 


7.0711 


33.59 


31.82 


28.28 


26.52 


22.98 




51 


7.1414 


33.92 


32.14 


28.57 


26.78 


23.21 




r.2 


7.2111 


34.25 


32.45 


28.85 


27.04 


23.44 




33 


7.2801 


34.58 


32.76 


29.12 


27.30 


23.60 




54 


7.3485 


34.91 


33.07 


29.39 


27.56 


23.88 




55 


7.4162 


35.23 


33.37 




27.81 


24.10 




56 


7.4833 


33.56 


S3.67 


29:93 


28.06 


24.32 




57 


'.o498 


35.86 


33.97 


30.20 


28.31 


24.54 




58 


7.6158 


36.17 


34.27 


30.46 


28.56 


24.75 




59 


7.6811 


36.49 


34.57 


30.72 


28.80 


24.96 




60 


7.7460 


36.79 


34.86 


30.98 


29.05 


25.17 




61 


7.8102 


37.10 


35.15 


31.24 




25.38 




62 


7.8740 


37.40 


35.43 


31.50 




25.59 




63 


7.9373 


37.70 


35.72 


31.75 




25.80 




64 


8.0000 


38.00 


36.00 


32.00 


30:00 


26.00 




65 


8.0623 


38.30 


36.28 


32.25 


30.23 


26.20 




66 


8.1240 


38.59 


36.56 


32.50 


30.47 


26.40 




67 


8.1854 




36.83 


32.74 


30.70 


26.60 




68 


8.2462 




37.11 


32.98 


30.92 


26.80 




69 






37.38 


33.23 


31.15 


27.00 




70 


8:3666 


39!74 


37.65 


33.47 


31.37 


27.19 





84 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 







TWIST 


TABLE. Continued. 






Counts 


& 


Ordlnarr 




Extra 


Mule Warp 
Twist. 


Mule 




Warp- 


Warp 


Mule VParp 


Filliog 


Numbers. 


Twist. 


Twist 


Twist. 


Twist. 


, 


1.0000 


4.75 


4..'?0 


4.00 


3.75 


3.85 


71 


8.4261 


40.02 


37.92 


33.70 


31.60 


27.38 


72 


8.4853 


40.31 


38.18 


33.94 


31.82 


27.58 


73 


8.5440 


40.58 


38.45 


34.18 


32.04 


27.77 


74 


8.G023 


40.86 


38.71 


34.41 


32.26 


27.96 


75 


8.6603 


41.14 


38.97 


34.64 


32.48 


28.15 


70 


8.7178 


41.41 


39.23 


34.87 


32.09 


28.33 


77 


8.7750 


41.68 


39.49 


35.10 


32.91 




'^0 


8.8318 


41.95 


39.74 


35.33 


33.12 


11:70 




8.8882 


42.22 


40.00 


35.55 


33.33 


28.89 


80 


8.9443 


42.49 


40.25 


35.78 




29.07 


81 


9.0000 


42.75 


40.50 


36.00 


11:75 


29.25 


82 


9.0554 


43.01 


40.75 


36.22 


33.96 


29.43 




9.1104 


43.27 


41.00 


36.44 


34.16 


29.61 


84 


9.1652 


43.53 


41.24 


36.66 


34.37 


20.79 


85 


9.ai95 


43.79 


41.49 


36.88 


34.57 


29.96 


86 


9.2736 


44.05 


41.73 


37.09 


34.78 


30.14 


87 


9.3274 


44.31 


41.97 


37.31 


34.98 


30.31 






44.56 


42.21 


37.52 


35.18 


30.49 


89 


iV4340 


44.81 


42.45 


37.74 


35.38 


30.66 


90 


9.4868 


45.06 


42.69 


37.95 




30.83 


91 


(1.5394 


45.31 


42.93 


38.16 


35:77 


31.00 


92 


9.5917 


45.56 


43.16 


38.37 


35.97 


31.17 




9.6437 


45.81 


43.40 


38.57 


36.16 


31.34 


94 


9.6954 


46.05 


43.63 


38.78 


36.36 


31.51 


95 


9.7468 


46.30 


43.86 


38.99 


36.55 




96 


9.7980 


46.54 


44.09 


39.19 


36.74 


3i:84 


97 


9.8489 


46.78 


44.32 


39.40 


36.93 


32.01 


98 


9.8995 


47.02 


44.55 


39.60 


37.12 




99 


9.9499 


47.26 


44.77 


39.80 


37.31 


32:34 


100 


10.0000 


47.50 


45.00 


40.00 


37.50 


32.50 


101 


10.0499 


47.74 


45.22 


40.20 


37.69 


32.66 


102 


10.0995 


47.97 


45.45 


40.40 


37.87 




103 


10.1489 


48.21 


45.67 


40.60 


38.06 




104 


10.1980 


48.44 


45.89 


40.79 


38.24 


33:14 


105 


10.2470 


48.67 


46.11 


40.99 


38.43 


33.30 


106 


10.2956 


48.90 


46.33 


41.18 


38.61 


33.46 


107 


10.3441 


49.13 


46.55 


41.38 


38.79 


33.62 


108 


10.3973 


49.36 


46.77 
46.98 


41.57 


38.97 


33.77 


109 


10.4403 


49.59 


41.76 


39.15 


33.93 


110 


10.4881 


49.82 


47.20 


41.95 


39.33 


34.09 


111 


10.5357 


50.04 


47.41 


42.14 


39.51 


34.24 


112 


10.5830 


50.27 


47.62 


42.33 


39.69 


34.39 


113 


10.6301 


50.49 


47.84 


42.52 


39.86 


34.55 


114 


10.6771 


50.72 


48.05 


42.71 


40.04 


34.70 


115 


10.7238 


50.94 




42.90 


40.21 


34.85 


lie 


10.7703 


51.16 


48:47 


43.08 


40.39 


35.00 


117 


10.8167 


51.38 


48.67 


43.27 


40.56 


35.15 


118 


10.8628 


51.60 


48.88 


43.45 


40.74 


35.30 


119 


10.9087 


51.82 


49.09 


43.63 


40.91 


35.45 


lao 


10.9545 


52.03 


49.30 


43.82 


41.08 




121 


11.0000 


52.25 


49.50 


44.00 


41.25 


35:75 


122 


11.0454 


52.47 


49.70 


44.18 


41.42 


35.90 


123 


11.0905 


ilil 


49.91 


44.36 


41.59 


36.04 


124 


11.1355 


50.11 


44.54 


41.76 


36.19 


125 


11.1803 


53.11 


50.31 


44.72 


41.03 


36.34 


12G 


11.2250 


53.32 


50.51 


44.90 


42.09 


36.48 


127 


11.2694 


53.53 


50.71 


45.08 


42.26 


36.63 


128 


11.3137 


53.74 


50.91 


45.25 


42.43 


36.77 


129 


11.3678 


53.95 


51.12 


45.43 


42.59 


36.91 


130 


11.4018 


54.16 


51.31 


45.61 


42.76 


37.06 


131 


11.4455 


54.37 




45.78 


42.92 


37.20 


132 


11.4891 


54.67 


5l!70 


45.96 


43.08 


37.34 


133 


11.5326 


54.78 


51.90 




43.25 


37.48 


134 


11.5758 


54.99 


52.09 




43.41 


37.62 


135 


11.6190 


55.19 




46!4d 


43.57 


37.76 


136 


11.6619 


55.39 


52,43 


46.65 


43.73 


37.90 


137 


J1.7047 
11.7473 


55.60 




46.82 


43.89 


38.04 


138 


55.80 




47.99 


44.05 


38.18 


139 


11.7898 


56.00 


53)05 


47.16 


44.21 


38.32 


140 


11.8322 


56^0 


63.24 


47.33 


44.37 


38.45 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 85 



DIAMETERS OF YARNS. 

The question of the diamater of yarns has 
very little bearing on practical calculations. 
About the only practical value that can be 
quoted is that of guiding a person to prevent 
him from attempting to make an impossible 
construction of cloth. 

There is a limit to the sle}^ and pick of a cloth 
that can be woven with a given weave and a 
given amount of material, the number varying 
according to the number of interfacings in the 
weave and the counts of yarn. 

It is well known that 3^arns of similar counts 
but of different grades of cotton vary in diameter, 
the natural tendenc)^ of some being to bed into 
each other more than others, thereby forming a 
yarn with a smaller diameter. 

A yarn made in a room containing a moisten- 
ing apparatus will also be of smaller diameter 
than one made in a hot, dt}' room in which there 
is considerable electricity because the fibres 
have a tendency to cling together better in a 
damp room. 

The diameters of cotton yarns vary inverseh' 
as the square roots of the counts and the follow- 
ing is given. 

To Find the Diameter of a Cotton Yarn, or the 
Number of Strands of Cotton Yarn of Any 
Counts that can be Placed Side by Side in One 
Inch. 

Rule 75. Multiply 840 by the comits of yarn ; 
extract the square root of the answer and dediict 
10 % for coinp7'ession. See Rule 76. 



86 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

Example. What is the diameter of I's yarn? 

840 X 1 = 840; sq. root 840 = 28.98; 10 % 
of 28.98 = 2.89. 

28.98 - 2.89 = 26.09 or 26.1, ^^^ inches, di- 
ameter of yarn, Ans. 

That is 26.1 strands of I's yarn can be placed 
side by side in the space of 1 inch. 

As the diameter of No. I's yarn is 1/26.1 
inches, Rule 76 may be substituted for Rule 75. 

Rule 76. Multiply the square root of the 
counts of yarn by 26.1. 

Example. How many strands of 36's yarn 
can be placed in 1 inch, fiat? 

Sq. root 36 = 6; 6 X 26.1 = 156.6, Ans. 
That is a 36's yarn is ^^ inches in diameter, 

The tables on pages 83 and 84 show the 
square root of all counts from 1 to 140, therefore 
to find the diameter of any cotton yarn it is only 
necessary to multiply the square root of the 
counts desired, as found in the table, by 26.1 to 
give the number of strands of yarn of that count 
that can be laid in the space of one inch. 

TESTING YARNS FOR STRENGTH. 

The method generalh^ adopted when testing 
yarns in hank form for strength is to reel one 
lea from each of 1 to 4 bobbins, and place each 
lea separately on a machine made for the pur- 
pose which automatically indicates the breaking 
strength of the yarn. It is advisable to have 
the testing machine run by power because when 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



87 



making comparative tests the pull on each hank 
should be uniform. 

Yarns of similar counts but different grades of 
cotton vary in breaking strength, and it is impos- 
sible to state just how strong a yarn should be. 
The number of turns or twists per inch will also 
vary the breaking strength. 

By referring to the table below it will be 
noticed that the yarns do not vary in breaking 
strength in similar proportion to the counts. 



BREAKING WEIGHT OF AMERICAN WARP 
YARNS. 

The following table, from Draper's catalogue, 
was made in July, 1886, after testing samples 
from over 225 representative mills. 

Breaking weigtit of American Warp Yarns, per sl<ein. Weight 
given in pounds and tenths. 



Num- 


Break- 


Num- 


Break- 


Num- 


Break- 


Num- 


Break- 


Num- 


Break- 


ber. 


ing 
Weight. 


ber. 


ing 
Weight. 


ber. 


ing 
Weight. 


ber. 


Wdght. 


ber. 


iug 
VFeight. 






ZO 


88.3 


40 


44.6 


60 


31.7 


SO 


24.6 


1 




21 


83.8 


41 


43.8 


01 


31.3 


81 


24.3 


2 




22 


79.7 


42 


43.0 


62 


30.8 


82 


24.0 


3 


530.0 


23 


75.9 


43 


42.2 


63 


30.4 


83 


23.7 


4 


410.0 


24 


72.4 


44 


41.4 


64 


30.0 


84 


23.4 


5 


330.0 


25 


69.2 


45 


40.7 


65 


29.6 


85 


23.2 


6 


275.0 


26 


66.3 


46 


40.0 




29.2 


86 


22.8 


7 


237.6 


27 


63.6 


47 


39.3 


67 


28.8 


87 


22.6 


8 


209.0 


23 


61.3 


48 


38.6 




28.5 


88 


22.4 


9 


186.5 


29 


59.2 


49 


37.9 


69 


28.2 


89 


22.2 


10 


168.7 


30 


57.3 


50 


37.3 


70 


27.8 


90 


22.0 


11 


154.1 


31 


55.6 


51 


36.6 


71 


27.4 


91 


21.7 


12 


142.0 


32 


54.0 


52 


36 1 


72 


27.1 


.92 


21.5 


13 


131.5 


33 


52.6 


53 


35!5 


73 


26.8 


93 


21.3 


14 


122.8 


34 


51.2 


54 


34.9 


74 


26.5 


94 


21.2 


15 


115.1 


35 


50.0 


55 


34.4 


75 


26.2 


95 


21.0 


16 


108.4 


36 


48.7 


56 


33.8 


76 


25.8 


96 


20.7 


17 


102.5 


57 


47.6 


57 


33.4 


77 


25.5 


87 


20.5 


18 


97.3 


^8 


46.5 


58 


32.8 


78 


25.3 


98 


20.4 


19 


92.6 


39 


45.5 


59 


32.3 


79 


24.9 


99 

[ioo_ 


20.2 
20.0 



88 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



Yards of Cloth per loom per day of ten hours 



Picks 




^"^ 


'^~**" 






■""^ 




per 




Picks perm 


note. 








iDCh 

20 


















_100_ 


105 


110 


>15 


120 


125 


130 


135 


140 


145 


150 


83.3 


stJ 


91.7 


95.8 


100.0 


104.2 


ims 


112.5 


116.7 


120.8 


125.0 




75.8 


79.5 


83.3 


87.1 


90.9 


947 


98.5 


102.3 


106.1 


109.8 


113.6 




69.4 


72.9 


76.4 


79.9 


83.3 


86.8 


90.3 


93.7 


97.2 


100.7 


104.2 


26 


64.1 


07.3 


70.5 


73.7 


76.9 


80.1 




86.5 


89.7 


92.9 


96.2 


28 


50.5 


62.5 


65.5 


68.5 


71.4 


74.4 


77:4 


80.4 




86.3 


89.3 


30 


5!5.6 


58.3 


61.1 


63.9 


66.7 


69.4 


72.2 


75.0 


77:8 


80.6 


83.3 




52.1 


54.7 


57.3 


59.9 


62.5 


65.1 


67.7 


70.3 




75.5 


78.1 


34 


49.0 


51.5 


53.9 


56.4 


58.8 


61.3 


63.7 


66.2 




71.1 


73.5 


36 


46.3 


48.6 


50.9 


53.2 


55.6 


57.9 


60.2 


62.5 


64:8 


67.1 


69.4 


38 


43.9 


46.1 


48.2 


50.4 


52.6 


54,8 


57.0 


59.2 


61.4 


63.6 


65.8 


40 


41.7 


43.7 


45.8 


47.9 


50.0 


52.1 


54.2 


56.3 


58.3 


60.4 


62.5 


42 




41.7 


43.7 


45.6 


47.6 


49.6 


51.6 


53.6 


55.6 


57.5 


59.5 


44 


37!9 


39.8 


41.7 


43.6 


45.5 


47.3 


49i2 


51.1 


53.0 


54 9 


56.8 


46 




38.0 


39.9 


41.7 


43.5 


45.3 


47.1 


48.9 


50.7 


52.5 


5.1-.3 


48 


SiJ 


36.5 


38.2 


39.9 


41.7 


43.4 


45.1 


46.9 


48.6 


50.3 


52.1 


50 




35.0 


36.7 


38.3 


40.0 


417 


43.3 


45.0 


46.7 


48.3 


50.0 


52 


32!! 


33.7 


35.3 




38.5 


40.1 


41.7 


43.3 


tn 


46.5 


48.1 


54 


30.9 


32.4 


34.0 


35:5 


37.0 




40.1 


41,7 


44.8 


46.3 


56 


29.8 


31.3 


32.7 


34.2 


35.7 


37:2 




40.2 


41.7 


43.2 


44.6 




28.7 


30.2 


31.6 


33.0 


34,5 


35.9 


37:4 


38.8 


40.2 


41.7 


43.1 


60 


27.8 


29.2 


30.6 


31.9 


33.3 


34.7 


36.1 


37.5 


38.9 


40.3 


41.7 


62 


26.9 


28.2 


29.G 


30.9 


32.3 


33.6 


34.9 




37.6 




40.3 


64 


26.0 


27.3 


28.6 




31.3 


32.6 


33.9 


35:2 






39.1 


66 




26.5 


27.8 


20:0 


30.3 


31.6 


32.8 


34.1 


35:4 


sele 


37.9 




■2i.a 


25.7 


27.0 


28.2 


29.4 


30.6 


31.9 


33.1 


34.£ 


35:5 


36.8 


70 


23.8 


25.0 


26.2 


27.4 


28.6 


29.8 


31.0 


32.1 




34.5 


35.7 


72 


23.1 




25.5 


26.6 


27.8 


28.9 


30.1 


31.3 


32.4 


33.6 


34.7 


74 


22.5 


23:6 


24.8 


25.9 


27.0 


28.2 


29.3 


30.4 


31.5 


32.7 


33.8 


76 


21.9 


23.0 


24.1 


25.2 


26.3 


27.4 


28.5 


29.6 


30.7 




32.9 


78 


21.4 


22.4 


23.5 


24.6 


25.6 


26.7 


27.8 


28.8 


29.9 


3i:( 


32.1 


80 




21.9 




24.0 


25.0 




27.1 


28.1 


29.2 


30.2 


31.3 


82 


20.3 


21.3 


22:4 


23.4 


24.4 


25:4 


26.4 


27.4 


28.5 


29.5 


30.5 


84 


19.8 


20.8 


21.8 




23.8 


24.8 


25.8 


26.8 


27.8 


28.8 


29.8 


86 


19.4 


20.3 




22.3 


23.3 


24.2 


25.2 


26.2 


27.1 


28.1 


29.1 


88 


18.9 


19.9 


20:8 


21.8 


22.7 


23.7 


24.6 


25.e 


26.5 


27.5 


28.4 


90 


18.5 


19.4 


20.4 


21.3 


22.2 


23.1 


24.1 




25.9 




27.8 


92 


18.1 


19.0 


19.9 


20.8 


21.7 


22.6 


23.6 


24:£ 


25.4 


26: f 


27.2 


94 


17.7 


18.6 


19.5 


20.4 


21.3 


22.2 


23.0 


23.9 


24.8 


25 7 


26.6 


96 


17.4 


18.2 


19.1 


20.0 


20.8 


21,7 


22.6 


23.4 


24.3 


25.2 


26.0 


98 


17.0 


17.9 


18.7 


19.6 


20.4 


213 


22.1 


23.0 


23.8 


24.7 


25.5 


100 


16.7 


17.5 


18.3 


19.2 


20.0 


20.8 


21.7 


22.5 


23.3 


24.2 


25.0 


102 


16.3 


17.2 


18.0 


18.8 




20.4 


21.2 


22.1 


22.9 


23.7 




104 


16.0 


16.8 


17.6 


18.4 




20.0 


20.8 




22.4 


23.2 




106 


15.7 


16.5 


17.3 


18.1 


lao 


19.7 


20.4 


21:2 


22.0 


22.8 




108 


15.4 


16.2 


17.0 


17.7 


18.5 


19.3 


20.1 


20.8 


21.6 


22.4 


23:1 


no 


15.2 


15.9 


16.7 


17.4 


18.2 


18.9 


19.; 


20.5 


21.2 


22.0 


22.7 


112 


14.9 




16.4 


17.1 




18.6 




20.1 


20.8 


21.6 


22.3 


114 


14.6 


it:! 


16.1 


16.8 


17.£ 


18.3 


lie 


19.7 


20.5 


21.2 


21.9 


116 


14.4 


15.1 


15.8 


16.5 


17.2 


18.0 


18.7 


19.4 


20.1 


20.8 


21.6 


118 


14.1 


14.8 


15.5 


16.2 


16.9 


17.7 


18.4 


19.1 


19.S 




21.2 




13.9 


14.6 


15.3 


16.0 


16.7 


17.4 


18.1 


18.7 




20:1 


20.8 


122 


13.7 




15.0 


15.7 


16.4 


17.1 


17.8 


18.4 


19:1 


19.8 


20.4 


124 


13.4 


14: 1 


14.8 


15.5 


16.1 


16.8 


17.5 


18.1 




19.5 


20.1 


126 


13.2 


13.9 


14.6 


15.2 


15.9 


16.5 


17.2 


17.9 


18:5 


19.2 


19.8 


128 


13.0 


13.7 


14.3 


15.0 


15.6 


16.3 


16.9 


17.6 


18.2 


18.9 


19.5 




12.8 


13.5 


14.1 


14.7 


15.4 


16.0 


16.7 


17.3 


17.9 


18.fi 


19.2 




12.4 




13.7 


14.3 


14.9 


15.5 


16.2 


16.8 


17.4 


18.U 


18.7 




12.3 


12:9 


13.5 


14.1 


14 7 


15.3 


15.9 


16.5 


17.2 


17.8 


18.4 


140 


11.9 


12.5 


13.1 


13.7 


14.3 


14 9 


15.5 


16.1 


16.7 


17.3 


17.9 


144 


11.6 


12.2 


12.7 


13.3 


13.9 


14.5 


15.0 


15.6 


16.2 


16.8 


17.4 


146 


11.4 


12.0 


12.6 


1.3.1 


13 7 


14.3 


14.8 


15.4 


16.0 


16.6 


17.1 


150 


11.1 


11.7 


12.2 


12.8 


13.3 


13.9 


14.4 


15.0 


15.6 


16.1 


16.7 


154 


10.8 


11.4 


11.9 


12.4 


13.0 


13.5 


14.1 


14.6 


15.2 


15.7 


16.2 


156 


10.7 


11.2 


11.8 


12.3 


12.8 


13.4 


13.9 


14.4 


15.0 


15.5 


16.0 


160 


10.4 


10.9 


11.5 


12.0 


12.5 


13.0 


13.5 


14.1 


14.6 


15.1 


15.6 


164 


10.2 


10.7 


11.2 


11.7 


12.2 


12.7 


13.2 


13.7 


14.2 


14.7 


15.2 


166 


10.0 


10.5 


11.0 


11.5 


12.0 


12.6 


13.1 


13.5 


14.1 


14.6 


15.1 


170 


9.8 


10.3 


10.8 


11.3 


11.8 


12.3 


12.7 


13.2 


13.7 


14.2 


14.7 


174 


9.6 


10.1 


10.5 


11.0 


11.5 


12.0 


12.5 


12.9 


13.4 


13.9 


14.4 


176 


9.5 


9.9 


10.4 


10.9 




11.8 


12.3 


12.8 




13.7 


14.2 


180 


9.3 


9.7 


10.2 


K^ 


111 


11.6 


12.0 


12.5 


13:0 


13.4 


13.9 



PRACTICAIv COTTOM CALCULATIONS 89 



Yards of Cloth per loom per day of ten hours. 



Plclu 






per 
inch 


Picks per miDute. 




20 


155 


160 165 


170 


176 


180 

150.6 


185 190 

154.2 158.3 


195 

102.5 


800 

106.7 


205 




120.2 


1,33.3 137.5 


141.7 


145.8 


170.8 




22 


117.4 


121.2 125.0 


128.8 


132.6 


130.4 


140.2 143.9 


147.7 


151.6 


155.3 




24 


107.6 


111.1,114.0 


118.1 


121.5 


125.0 


128.5 


131.9 


135.4 


138.9 


142.4 




2G 


90.4 


102.0 


105.8 


109.0 


112.2 


115.4 


118.6 


121.8 


125.0 


128.2 


131.4 




28 


92.3 


95.2 


98.2 


101.2 


104.2 


107.1 


110.1 


113.1 


110.1 


119.0 


122.0 




30 


86.1 


sso 


01.7 


94.4 


97.2 


100.0 


102.8 


105.5 


108.3 


111.1 


1 13.9 




32 


80.7 


83.3 


85.9 


88.5 


91.1 


93.7 


96.4 


99.0 


101.0 


104.2 


100.8 




34 


70.0 


78.4 


80.9 


83.3 


85.8 


fi8.2 


90.7 


93.1 


95.6 


98.0 


100.5 




36 


71.8 


74.1 


76.4 


78.7 


81.0 




85.1 


88.0 


90.3 


92,0 


94.9 




38 


C8.0 


70.2 


72.4 


74.6 


76.8 


78!9 


81.1 


83.3 


85.5 


87.7 


89.9 




40 


04.C 


06.7 


68.7 


70.8 


72.9 


75.0 


77.1 


79.2 


81.3 




85.4 




42 


01.5 


03.5 


65.5 


67.5 


09.4 


71.4 


73.4 


75.4 


77.4 


79!4 


81.3 




44 


58.7 


00.6 


62.5 


04.4 


6G.3 


68.2 


70.1 


72.0 


7.3.9 


75.8 


77.7 




4G 


50.2 


68.0 


59.8 


Cl.O 


63.4 


65.2 


07.0 


08.8 


7f>.7 


72,5 


74.3 




48 


53.8 


55.0 


57.3 


59.0 


60.8 


02.5 


04.2 


60.0 


67.7 


69.4 


71.2 




no 


51.7 


63.3 


55.0 


50.7 


58.3 


GO.O 


ei.7 


63.3 


65.0 


06.7 


08.3 




52 


49.7 


51:3 


52.9 


54.5 


50.1 


57.7 


59.3 


60.9 


02.5 


04.1 


05.7 




54 


47.8 


49.4 


50.9 


52.5 


54.0 


65.6 


57.1 


68.G 


00.2 


61.7 


63.3 




GO 


40.1 


47.6 


49.1 


50.fi 


52.1 


53.6 


55.1 


66.6 


58.0 


59.5 


61,0 




58 


44.5 


40.0 


47.4 


48.8 


50.3 


51.7 


63.2 


54.0 


56.0 


57.5 


58.9 




GO 


43.1 


44.4 


45.8 


47.2 


48.6 


50.0 


51.4 


52.8 


54.2 


55.0 


56.9 




(i2 


41.7 


43.0 


44.4 


45.7 


47.0 


48.4 


49.7 


51.1 


52.4 


63.8 


55.1 




64 


40.4 


41.7 


43.0 


44.3 


45.0 


40.9 


48.2 


49.5 


50.8 


52.1 


53.4 




or. 


39.1 


40.4 


41.7 


42.9 


44.2 


45.5 


46.7 


48.0 


49.2 


50.5 


51.8 




08 


38.0 


39.2 


40.4 


41.7 


42.9 


44.1 


45.3 


46.6 


47.8 


49.0 


60.2 




70 


30.9 


38.1 


39.3 


40.5 


41.7 


42.9 


44.0 


45.2 


46.4 


47.0 


48.8 




72 


35.9 


37.0 


38.2 


39.4 


40.5 


41.7 


42.8 


44.0 


45.1 


46.3 


47.5 




74 


34.9 


36.0 


37.2 


38.3 


39.4 


40.5 


41.7 


42.8 


43.9 


45.0 


46.2 




7C 


34.0 


35.1 


30.2 


37.3 


38.4 


39.5 


40.0 


41.7 


42.8 


43.9 


45.0 




78 


33.1 


34.2 


35.3 


36.3 


37.4 


38.5 


39.5 


40.0 


41.7 


42.7 


43.8 




80 


32.3 


33.3 


34.4 


3.5.4 


36.5 


37.5 


38.5 


39.6 


40.0 


41.7 


42.7 




82 


31.5 


32.5 


33.5 


34.6 


35.C 


30.0 


37.0 


38.0 


39.6 


40.7 


41.7 




84 


30.8 


31.7 


32.7 


3.3.7 


34.7 


36.7 


36.0 


37.7 


38.7 


39.7 


40.7 




80 


30.0 


31.0 


32.0 


32.9 




34.9 


35.8 


30.8 


37.8 


38.8 


39.7 




88 


29.4 


30.3 


31.3 


32.2 


33.1 


34.1 


35.0 


30,0 


30.9 


37.9 


38.8 




90 


28.7 


29.0 


30.6 


31.5 


32.4 


33.3 


34.3 


35.2 


36.1 


37.0 


38.0 




|J2 


28.1 


29.0 


29.9 


30.8 


31.7 


.■t2.0 


33.5 


34.4 


35.3 


36.2 


37.1 






27.5 


28.4 


20.3 


30.1 


31.0 


31.9 


32.8 


33.7 


34.0 


35.6 


.36.3 




90 


20.9 


27.8 


28.6 


29.5 


30.4 


31.3 


32.1 


33.0 


33.9 


34.7 


35.6 




98 


20.4 


27.2 


28.1 


28.9 


29.« 


30.6 


31.5 


32.3 


33.2 


34.0 


34.9 




100 


25.8 


20.7 


27.5 




29.2 




30.8 


31.7 


32,5 


33.3 


34.4 




102 


25.3 


20.1 


27.0 


I?! 


28.6 


29:4 


30.2 


31.0 


31.9 


32.7 


33.5 




104 


24.8 


25.0 


20.4 


27.2 


28,0 


2K.8 


29.0 


30.4 


31.3 


32.1 


32.9 




!0G 


24.4 


2.'-.-2 


25.9 


20.7 


27.5 


28.3 


20.1 


29.9 




31.4 


32.2 




108 


23.9 


24.7 


25.5 


26.2 


27.0 


27.8 




2U.3 


30:1 


30.9 


31.6 




no 


23.5 


24.2 


25.0 


26.8 


20.5 


27.3 




28.8 


29.5 


30.3 


31.1 




112 


23.1 


23.8 


24.0 


25.3 


2fi.O 


26.8 


27:5 




29.0 


29.8 


30.5 






22.7 


23.4 


24.1 


24.9 


25.0 


2G.3 


27.0 


2718 


28.5 


20.2 


30.0 




no 


22.3 


23.0 


23.7 


24.4 


25.1 


25.9 


2C.6 


27.3 


28.0 


28.7 


29.5 




118 


21.9 


22.6 


23.3 


24.0 


24.7 


25.4 


26.1 


26.8 


27.5 


28.2 


29.0 




130 


21.5 


22.2 


22.9 


23.fi 


24.3 


25.0 


25.7 


26.4 


27.1 


27.8 


28,6 




122 


21.2 


21.9 


22.5 


23.2 


23.9 


24.0 


25.3 


20.0 


20,6 


27.3 


28.0 




124 




21.5 


22.2 


22.8 


23.5 


24.2 


24.9 


25.5 


20.2 


20.9 


27.0 




120 


20;5 


21.2 


21.8 


22.5 


23.1 


23.8 


24.5 


25.1 


25.8 


20.5 


27.1 




128 


20.2 


20.8 


21.5 


22.1 


22.8 


23.4 


24.1 


24.7 


25.4 


20.0 


20.7 




130 


19.9 


20.5 


21.2 


21.8 


22.4 


23.1 


23.7 


24.4 


25.0 




26.3 




134 


19.3 


19.9 


20.5 


21.1 


Si. 8 


22.4 


23.0 


•23.0 


24.3 


24;9 


25. C 




136 


19.0 


19.0 


20.2 


20.8 


21.4 


22.1 


22.7 


23.3 


23.9 


24.5 


25.1 




140 


18.5 


19.0 


19.C 


20.2 


20.8 


21.4 


22.0 


22.6 


23.2 




24.4 




144 


17.9 


18.5 


19.1 


19.7 


20.3 


20.8 


21.4 


22.0 


22.6 


23!l 


23.7 




140 


17.7 


18.3 


18.8 


19.4 


20.0 


20.5 


21.1 


21.7 


22.3 


22.8 


23.4 




150 


17.2 


17.8 


18.3 


18.9 


19.4 


20.0 


20.0 


21.1 


21.7 


22.2 


22.8 




154 


10.8 


17.3 


17.9 


18.4 


18.9 


19.5 


20.0 


20.0 


21.1 


21.6 


22.2 




156 


ICC 


17.1 


17.6 


18.2 


18.7 


19.2 


19.8 


20.3 


20.8 




21.9 




lAO 


10.1 


10.7 


17.2 


17.7 


18.2 


18.7 


19.3 


19.8 


20.3 




21.4 




104 


15.8 


,10.3 


10.8 


17.3 


17.8 


18.3 


18.8 


19.3 


19.8 


20:3 


20.8 




160 


16.6 


'10,1 


10.6 


17.1 


17.0 


18.1 




19.1 


19.0 


20.1 


20.6 


170 

174 


15.2 


15.7 


i<;.2 


10.7 


17.2 


17.6 


isii' 


18.0 


19.1 


19.0 


20.1 


14.8 


15.4 


16.8 


16.3 


16.8 


17.2 


17.7 


18.2 


18.7 


in.2 


19.6 


176 


14.7 


15.2 


i5.e 


16.1 


10.6 


17.0 


17.5 


18.0 


18.5 


18.9 


19.4 


liso. 


14.4 


14.8 


15.3 


15.7 


16.2 16.7| 


17.1 


17.6 


18.1 


18.6 


19.0 





90 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



CLOTH PRODUCTION. 

To Find Production of Cloth per Week of 56, 58, 
60, or 66 Hours, at Any Desired % from 50 to 
100, Running in 5's. 

Rule 77. Multiply the speed of the loom by the 
consta?it desired in the follozving list and divide by 
the number of picks per inch. 



Fer cent, of 
production 


Constant 


Constant 


Constant 


Constant 


to use for 
5<) hours 


to use for 
58 hours 


to use for 
GO hours 


to use for 
()6 hours 


50 


46| 


48i 


50 


55 


55 


5H 


53^ 


55 


60.5 


60 


56 


58 


60 


66 


65 


601 


62 -V*; 


65 


71.5 


70 


65i 


671 


70 


77 


75 


70 


72i- 


75 


82.5 


80 


741 


77i 


80 


88 


85 


79i 


82* 


85 


93.5 


90 


84 


87 


90 


99 


95 


88f 


915/6 


95 


104.5 


100 


93i 


96| 


100 


110 


Example. What 


is the production 


in yards 


per week 


of 60 hou 


rs, of a 


loom running 160 


picks per 


minute, weaving 


a cloth 


with 120 


picks per inch, at 80 


%? 






160 pick 


3 X 80 constant 


1061 varr 


s. Ans. 



120 picks per inch 
The preceding constants are based on the 
following: 

60 minutes X hours per week X % production 
36 inches per yard 



PRACTICAI. COTTON CALCULATIONS 91 

The cloth production tables on pages 88 and 
89, are based on 100 % production for 10. hours, 
no allowance being made for stoppages. 

Owing to the tables being computed for 10 
hours they are very convenient when requiring 

To Find % Production of a Loom when Hours Run, 
Speed of Loom, Picks per Inch and Actual Pro= 
duction in Yards are Known. 

Rule 78. Multiply picks per inch by yaj^ds 
produced and by .6', a7id divide by speed of loom 
a?id number of hours run. 

The .6 is obtained by dividing 3.6 inches per 
yard by 60 minutes per hour. 

Example. The actual production of a loom 
running 150 picks per minute, weaving a cloth 
with 80 picks per inch, is 23 yards, in 10 hours. 
What is the % of production? 

80 picks per inch X 23 yards X .6 _ 

150lJ^^^d^Jh^W>O0 ~ \^^ 

To Find Production of Cloth, in Yards per Loom, 
for Any Number of Hour.?, at Any Desired % . 

Rule 79. Multiply the production for 10 
hours at 100 % , as indicated in the tables by the 
number of hours run and the fo of production^ 
desi?'ed, and divide by 10. . 

Example. A cloth with 60 picks per inch is 
desired to be woven on a loom running 160 picks 
per minute. What would be the production 
per week of 58 hours at 80 % ? 

According to the table the production for 10 
hours at 100 % would be 44.4 yards therefore 



92 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

44.4 yards X 58 hours X .80 ^^^ ^ 

-r^~ = 206 yds., Ans. 

10 hours 

Rule 79 may be used 
To Find the Number of Cuts per Loom per Week 

by dividing the number of yards per week by 
the length of the cut. 



LOOM CALCULATIONS. 

To Find Constant to Use for Any Loom Take=Up 
Motion, 

Rule 80, Multiply all the driven gears to- 
gether a7id divide by all the drivers multiplied 
together. 

The circumference of the sand roller in inches 
is considered a driver. If the motion takes up 
every two picks the driven gears should be mul- 
tiplied by 2. 

It is customary to allow a certain % for the 
difference between the picks per inch in the 
cloth while in the loom and after leaving the 
loom. This may be done by deducting a cer- 
tain % , varying from 1 to 2 % , according to the 
motion used, from the circumference of the sand 
roUer. 

To Find Change Gear or Picks per Inch on Looms 
where the Change Gear is a Driver, when Con» 
stant is Known. 

Rule 81. Divide the constant by picks per 
inch to find change gear. Divide constant by 
change gear to find picks per inch. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CAI.CULAT10NS 91^ 

When the change gear is a driver the con- 
stant is always a dividend. 

To Find Change Gear or Picks per Inch on Looms 
where the Change Gear is a Driven Gear, when 
Constant is Known. 

Rule 82. Divide picks per inch by constant to 
find change gear. Multiply change gear by con- 
stant to find picks per inch. 

The sand roller gear and every alternate gear 
from that are driven gears. All the remaining 
gears are drivers. 



SPEED CALCULATIONS. 

To Find Speed of Shafting, when Diameter of 
Driving Pulley, Diameter of Loom Pulley, and 
Speed of Loom are KnOwn. 

Rule 83. Multiply diameter of loom p2illey by 
speed of loom, and divide by diameter of driving 
pulley. 

Example. What is the speed of shafting 
required to run a loom 145 picks per minute, 
■_with a 14 inch pulley on the loom and a 7 inch 
" )ulley on the shaft ? 

L4 inch pulley on loom X 145 picks per minute 
7 inch pulley on shaft 
= 290 revolutions per minute, Ans. 



94 PRACTICAI. COTTON CALCUIvATIONS 

To Find Diameter of Driving Pulley, when Spsed 
of Shafting, Diameter of Loom Pulley, and 
Speed of Loom are Known. 

Rule 84, Multiply diameter of loom pulley by 
speed of loom, a?id divide by speed of shafting . 

Example. What diameter of pulley will be 
required on a shaft running 290 revolutions per 
minute to run a loom 145 picks per minute with 
a 14 inch pulley? 

14 in. pulley X 145 picks per min. _ . , 

■ ~ t^rio. T^ — ^^ — ^T == ' inches 

290 R. P.M. diameter of 

driving pulley, Ans. 



To Find Diameter of Loom Pulley, when Speed of 
Loom, 5peed of Shafting, and Diameter of 
Driving Pulley are Known. 

Ru'e 85. Multiply speed of shafting by di- 
ameter of driving pulley, and divide by speed of 
loom . 

Example. A loom is required to run 145 
picks per minute. The speed of the shaft is 290 
R. P. M. and the diameter of the pulley on the 
shaft is 7 inches. What diameter of loom pul- 
ley will be required ? 

290 R. P. M. X 7 i ns, driving pulley _ . 

145^i^ per min, "diam^^ter of 

loom pulley, Afzs. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CA^CULATlOKS 95 

To Find Speed of Loom, when Speed of Shafting, 
Diameter of Driving Pulley, and Diameter of 
Loom Pulley are Known. 

Rule 86. Multiply speed of shafting by di- 
ameter of drizmig pulley^ and divide by diameter 
of looT/i pulley . 

Example. What will be the speed of a loom 
with a 14 inch pulle)^ the speed of shafting 
being 290 R. P. M. and the diameter of the 
driving pulley 7 inches? 

290 R. P. M. X 7 ins, driving pulley , ,^ . , 

—— — 2_£: r= 145. picks 

14 m. loom pulley per min.,^4;^.. 

The four preceding rules, 83 to 86, may be 
summarized in the following 

Formula D. To Find Speed of Shafting, Diameter 
of Driving Pulley, Diameter of Loom Pulley, 
or Speed of Loom. 

Speed of shafting X diameter of driving pulley 

are equal to 

Diameter of loom pulley X speed of loom 

Rule. Divide the product of the remaining 
items of the group containing the reqtiired item 
into the product of the other group. 

When the numbers found are too large for 
practical purposes use smaller numbers that are 
in direct ratio with them. 



96 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 



COST CALCULATIONS. 

To Find Weaving Cost per Yard when Weekly 
Rate and Production are Known. 

Rule 87. Divide the weekly rate by the pro- 
duction in yards per week. 

Example. If the production of a loom is 150 
yards per week, the weekly rate $9.75, and the 
looms per sett 5, what would be the weaving 
price per yard of cloth ? 

150 yards X 5 looms = 750 yds. per week 

$9.75 weekly rate ., o • 

=^7; — T = 1 . 3c . weaving cost per yd . , 

750 yds. per week * ^ Ans 

or $9.75 ., ^^ 

~ = $1.95 per loom 

5 looms ^ 

11.95 -. o • 

z-^t; -. -. ^ 1 . 3c . weaving cost per yd . , 

150 yards per loom ** ^ ^^^^ 

To Find Weaving Cost per Cut when Weekly Rate 
Length of Cut, and Production per Week are 
Known. 

Rule 88. Multiply the weekly rate by the 
length of cut and divide by the production per 
7veek. 

Using the preceding example what would be 
the weaving cost per cut of 100 yards? 

$9.75 weekly rate X 100 yds, cut length _^ 

750 yds. production per week weaving 

cost per cut, A71S. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 97 

To Find Cost per Yard for Oversight when Pro= 
duction and Oversight per Loom per Week are 
Known. 

Rule 89. Divide the ove?-sight per lootn by the 
productio7i. 

Example. If a plain loom produces 160 
yards per week and the oversight per loom per 
week is 31 cents. What would be the oversight 
cost per 5'ard? 

31c. oversight ,r^«r-^ - -, 

— tttt; r^ — ^ .193 /5c. Oversight per yard, 

leOyardi ^ ^^^ 

To Find General Expense per Yard when Produc= 
tion and General Expense per Loom per Week 
are Known. 

Rule 90. Divide the general expense per loo7n 
by the production. 

Example. If a loom produces 145 yards per 
week and the general expense per loom is $1.74. 
What would be the cost per yard for general 
expense? 

— — = 1.2c. general expense per j^d., Ans. 

To Find General Expense per Pound of Cloth when 
General Expense per Loom, Yards per Week 
per Loom and Number of Yards per Pound are 
Known. 

Rule 91. Multiply the general expense per 
loom by the number of yards per pound and divide 
by the number of yards per week. 



98 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

Example. If the general expense in a mill 
is estimated at $1.80 per loom per week, what 
would be the general expense per pound of a 
piece of cloth 5.3 yards per pound produced at 
the rate of 130 yards per week per loom? 

$1.80 genl. expense per loom X 5.3 yards per lb 
130 yards per week 
= 7.338c, genl. expense per lib, Ans. 



To Find Cost of Stock per Pound of Cloth, la a 
Cloth Containing More than One Quality of 
Cotton and More than One Counts of Yarn 
when Cost of Cotton per Pound and % of 
Each Counts of Yarn are Known. 

Rule 92. Multiply the % of each yarn by the 
cost of cotton per pouud. A dd results . 

Example. A cloth contains 37 % of 9c. 
cotton and 63 % of 12c. cotton. What is the 
cost of stock per lb of cloth ? 

37 % or .37 X 9c. = 3.33 
63 o/c or .63 X 12c. = 7.56 

10.89c. per lb, Ans. 

To Find Cost of Yarns per Cut when Weight and 
Cost per Pound of Each is Known. 

Rule 93. Multiply the weight of each by the 
cost per pound. Add results. 

Example. A cloth contains 5 lbs. of warp 
and ^\ lbs. of filling. If the warp costs 18c. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CAI.CULATIONS 99 

and the filling 19c. per lb what would be the 
cost of the yarns in the cloth ? 

5 lbs. warp X 18c. = 90c. 
4^ lbs. filling X 19c. = 85ic. 

$1,751-, A?is. 

To Find Cost of Yarns per Yard of Cloth when 
Total Cost of Cut and Length of Cut are 
Known. 

Rule 94. Divide the cost per cut by the length. 

Example. The yarn in a cut of cloth 100 
yards long cost $3.80. What is the cost of the 
yarns per yard of cloth ? 

^3.80 ^ „ , J ^ 

zTKp. r = o.oc. cost of yarns per yard, Ans. 

100 yards 



To Find Cost of Yarns in a Warp when Counts, 
Length, Number of Ends and Price per Pound 
are Known. 

Rule 95. JVhdtiply the length of the warp in 
yards by the munber of ends in the warp and the 
price per pound and divide by 840 a7id the yar7i 
counis. 

Example. A cotton warp 1200 yards long 
contains 2700 ends of 35 's yarn. The yarn price 
is 26c. per pound. What is the cost of the 
warp ? 

''"V.n"' 1!'°° ^'"''^ "^ ''" = *28-66. Ans. 
840 X 35's warp counts 



L.ofC. 



100 PRACTICAI. COTTON CAI,CUI,ATlONS 

To Find Cost of Filling in a Piece of Cloth when 
Length of Piece, Width in Reed, Pick, Counts 
and Price per Pound of Filling are Known. 

Rule 96. Multiply le7igtJi of piece by width in 
reed, picks per inch and price per pound, and 
divide by 840 and the filling coiints. 

Example. A cut of cloth 56 yards long is 
woven 30 inches wide in the reed with 70 picks 
per inch of 40's falling. The cost of the fflling 
is 25 cents per pound. What is the cost of the 
filling per cut? 

56 yards X 30 inches in reed X 70 pick X 25c. 
840 X 40 's filling counts 

= 87.5c. cost of filling, Ans. 



COSTS OF CLOTH. 

In cloth mills the product from which the 
income is realized is cloth, therefore the most 
important branch of textile calculations in a 
cloth mill deals with costs. 

The cost of a piece of cloth, which is figured 
at so much per yard, or so much per pound, or 
both, is usually estimated in the office from 
items furnished by the various overseers. 

As all textile calculations enter either directly 
or indirectly into, and lead up to the final cost of 
the cloth, the rules in the earlier part of this 
book are given, although all of them are not 
necessary for any one piece of cloth. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 101 

The preceding rules have been given so that 
any one item may be found with very little 
trouble, and it is intended in the succeeding 
pages to show how the cost of any cloth may be 
ascertained. 

As the methods of estimating costs vary in 
different mills, one method only will be explained 
here ; part of the items dealt with in explaining 
this or other items calculated from them, are 
usually required in every mill. 

For convenience in dealing with mill calcula- 
tions it is customar)^ to use what are termed 
blanks, upon which are printed various items. 
Against these items overseers of the various de- 
partments write out the necessary data. In the 
system to be explained here it will first be 
shown how the various items necessary to fill 
out the weave-room blank are obtained, then 
how the total cost per yard, and per pound of 
cloth, are estimated. 

In the following blank the words shown in 
italic type are supposed to be printed. The re- 
maining figures and letters show the data neces- 
sary for the production of a certain piece of cloth 
which will be taken as an example in explaining 
the items and how they are obtained. 



102 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

System of Filling Out Blank with Weave Room 
Data for a Piece of Cloth. 

BLANK NUMBER 1. 

1. Pattern yiumber. 26. 

2. Kind of doth. L,eno. 

S. Sley. ^^^ 4. Pick. 80. 

■ 5. Warp counts, No. of ends of each, a7id contrac- 
tioTi and size. 
200 ends 4/32 's, 20 % contraction. 
300 ends 2/32's, 15 % contraction. 
2184 ends 50's, 10 % contraction and size. 

6'. Filling counts. 60 's. 

7. Width of cloth. 28 inches. 

8. Width in reed. 30 inches. 

9. Yards per pound. 6.02. 

10. Looms per sett. 4. 11. Speed. 150. 

12. Per ce)it. of pi'oduction. 80. 

13. Weekly rate. $10.00. 

14. Ya7'ds per week {58 hours) . 145. 

15. Weaving- cost per yard. 1.724c. 

16. Counts a?id weight of ya7'n in 100 yards of 

cloth . 
Warp. 4/32's, 3.56 pounds. 
2/32's, 2.56 " 
50's, 5.72 

17. Filling. 60's, 4.76 



18. 16.60 pounds , Total weight in 

100 yards of cloth. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 108 
Explanation of Items in Weave Room Blank. 

1. Pattern number. This item will readily 
explain itself. 

2. Kind of cloth. Against this is placed 
leno, plain, bedford cord, etc., according to style 
made. 

3 and 4. Sley a7id Pick. These are found 
from the cloth to be made by the designer, or b}" 
the weave room overseer, if the latter does the 
designing. The count of the cloth mentioned 
here is 56 X 80. The 128 shown under the sley 
reed, represents the average sley, and is found 
from items 5 and 7 by Rule 48 as follows. 

3584 total ends 

— — — — — = 128 av. sley. 

28 ms. width of cloth ^ 

The average count of the cloth is 128 X 80. 

5. Warp counts, No. of ends of each, and con- 
traction and size. The warp counts are usually 
found by comparison, as explained on page 12, 
or by weighing as in Rule 1. The number of 
ends of each counts are obtained by Rule 20. 
The amount to allow for contraction and size are 
estimated by the designer. 

Ply cotton yarns are not usually sized. 

6. Filling counts. If the weight of the cloth 
is of secondary importance, which is usually the 
case in fancy cotton goods, the filling is varied, 
if necessary, until a counts is obtained that 
makes the appearance of the cloth satisfactory. 
When the counts of the filling is decided upon 
in this manner, the weight of the cloth, item 9, 
may be found by Rules 64 and 65, after finding 
item 18. See example after explanation of item 



104 PRACTICAL COTTON CAI^CULATIONS 

9. If items 5 and 9 "are found before the filling 
counts the latter may be found from items 4, 8 
and 17, by Rule 37. 

ExampIvE;. 
80 pick X 30 ins, at reed X lOO yds. _ 

840X4.76 lbs. of filling " unts of 

filling 
Note how the weight of the filling, item 17, is 
obtained. 

7. Width of doth. This is usually given to 
the designer by the superintendent. 

8. Width at reed. This may be found from 
items 3 and 7, by Rule 60. 

Example. 

56 sley X 28 inches width of cloth 
26.19 dents per inch in reed X 2 ends per dent 
= 29.93 inches, say 30 inches width in reed 

In the table on page 69 a 56 sley gives 26.19 
dents per inch in the reed. 

In dealing with the contraction of a fancy 
cloth it is necessary that a person should have 
considerable practical experience before he can 
judge what to allow for contraction, and it is 
advisable that the notes on pages 58 to 63 be 
thoroughly understood and borne in mind. 

9. Number of yai^ds per pound. Cloths are 
sometimes made to a certain weight and the 
counts of yarns varied to make this weight ; 
other cloths are made with given yarns and the 
weight figured from these. In both these 
methods item 5 is usually found in the same 
manner. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 105 

If item 5 and the -weight of the cloth are 
known the filling, item 6, ma}'' be found from 
items 4, 8 and 17, by Rule 37. See example 
after explanation of item 6. 

If item 18 is known, item 9 may be figured 
from this by Rules 64 and 65. 

Example. Item 18 gives 16.60 lbs. of yarn 
in 100 yards of cloth. 

100 yards 



16.60 lbs. 



6.02 yards per ft 



Items 10. Looms per sett; 11. Speed of loom; 
1:2. Per cent, productiori ; and 13. Weekly rate; 
are all estimated according to the width of cloth, 
quality of yarn, type of loom, and difficult}'- of 
pattern. 

It is while running a sample that an}^ diffi- 
culties that are liable to be met with later in 
making an order of goods like the sample should 
be noted. The probable difficulties cannot 
always be noticed when making the sample but 
should be when possible because the less the 
production, from any cause, the more the cost. 
If the actual production falls below that esti- 
mated the margin between the cost and selling 
price gets smaller. 

Item 13 is mutually fixed by the head official 
and weave room overseer. 

14. Yards per week. This may be found from 
items 4, 11 and 12 by Rule 78. 

15. Weaving cost per yard. This may be 
found from items 10, 13 and 14, by Rule 87. 



106 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONTS 

Example. 145 yards X 4 looms = 580 yards 
per week from 4 looms, 

$10.00 weekly rate -^ 580 yards = 1.724c, 
weaving cost per yard. 

16. Counts and imight of 7varp yarns in 100 
yards of cloth. The counts of warp are obtained 
as stated in explanation of item 5. The weight 
is obtained from item 5 and length by Rule 11. 

Example. 

800 ends X 100 yards _ ^^^ ^ ^^ ^^ _ 3 ^^ 



840 X H2's counts ^^^^^^ ^^ 4/33,^ 

or, 800 ends X 120 yards o r^ lu .4/00, 

m^ ^. Qo- : — = ^-'^^ ^bs. of 4/32's 

840 X 32 s counts ' 

Note. The length 100 yards is taken instead 
of 1 yard because it does not deal with so many 
small amounts, and instead of any other number 
between 1 and 100 because fewer figures are 
dealt with. When multiplying by 100 it is only 
necessary to add 2 ciphers at the right of the 
multiplicand, or to move the point 2 places to 
the right if a decimal fraction. 

17. Weight offilling in 100 yards of cloth. This 
is figured out from items 4, 6 and 8, by Rule 33. 

Example. 

80 pick X 30 ins. X 100 yds. . „^ ,, . , ^ 

— ^ ^ ■„ ^^ „„, 7 — = 4.76 lbs. weight 

840 X 60's counts ^f ^^1^^^ 

If item 6 is not known item 17 may be found 
by deducting the combined weights of the warps 
from the weight of the cut, item 18. 

The loss by waste was not considered in the 



PRACTICAL COTTON CAIvCULATIONS 107 

above examples when finding items 16 and 17, 
The waste item is usually added in the office 
when computing the cost. 

18. Weight of cut. Say 100 yards. This may 
be found by adding items 16 and 17 together, or 
by dividing the length of cut by item 9, the 
number of yards per pound. 

Item 13 may be said to cover the weaving cost 
of cloth. To this must be added other costs 
which are necessary ; these which are computed 
and arranged in the office, are here numerically 
arranged as follows. 

19. Oversight per loom per week. 

20. Cost of stock. 

21. Cost of labor in making yarn. 

22. General expense per loom per week. 

Explanation of Items to be had in Office. 

19. Oversight per loom per week. These are 
probable expenses in the weave room to pay for 
overseer, fixers, all day help other than weavers, 
and supplies. This is a fixed figure, estimated 
at so much per loom, based on previous reports, 
saj^ for 6 months, and verified and corrected from 
time to time. The oversight varies in different 
mills according to the time run, and efficiency 
of the help and management, 42c. for fancy, and 
31c. for plain looms will be considered here for 
oversight. 

20. Cost of stock. Against this is marked thie 
prevailing price of raw material of the quality of 
cotton used. 



108. PRACTICAI. COTTON CALCULATIONS 

21. Cost of labor in makhig yarns. This is 
computed from, production sheets, pay rolls and 
reports of tjbe overseers of the various depart- 
ments from the picker to the spinning room, and 
is stated at so much per pound. 

Items 20 and 21 may be shown together on a 
blank in the office, along with the counts of the 
yarns, as follows. 





BLANK No. 


2. 






Cost of Yarns per 


Pound. 






Stock 








Counts 


Quality 


Price 


lyABOR 


Total 


4/32 


A. li ins. 


12c. 


4.7c. 


16.7c. 


2/32 


A. 1^ ins. 


12c.. 


4.9c. 


16.9c. 


50's 


B. li ins. 


14c. 


6.2c. 


20. 2c. 


GO'S 


B. H ins. 


14c. 


7.35c. 


21.35c. 



. The above blank only shows the items neces- 
sary for the cloth given here as an example. In 
the mill it would contain all the counts of yarn 
that they were making. 

Blank No. 2 takes in cost of spooling, slashing 
and warping, and represents the cost of the yarn 
delivered in the weave room. 

22. General expense. This is an approximate 
future expense estimated at a certain amount 
per loom per week, and is intended to cover all 
general expenses, beyond those already indi- 
cated, incurred before the cloth reaches the 
buyer. It takes in costs for taxes, insurance, 
interest, salaries, supplies, sundries, engineers, 
yard help, watchmen, lighting, oil, power, office 
expenses, cloth room, etc., and varies in most 



PRACTICAL COTTON CALCL /.ATIOK 109 

mills. The general expense will here be as- 
sumed to be $1.80 per loom per week. 

With the data shown on blanks 1 and 2, and 
the price per week per loom for oversight and 
general expense known. The following method 
is adopted to arrive at the cost per 3'ard and per 
pound of cloth. 

Rule 93 is first applied to find cost of yarns 
per cut, from items 16, 20 and 21. 

Example. 

3.56 lbs. 4/32 at 16.7c. = .59452 
2.56 lbs. 2/32 at 16.9c. = .43264 
5.72 lbs. 50's at 20.2c. = 1.15544 
4.76 lbs. 60's at 21.35c. = 1.01626 



16.60 lbs. total weight $3.19886 toLal cost 

per 100 yds. of yarns per 100 

yds. of cloth 
This would be considered as $3.20. 

Rule 19 is next applied to find cost of j^arns 
per yard of cloth. 



Example. 
5.20 cost per cut 
100 vds. 



= $.032 or 8.2c. cost of yarns 
■ ' per 3^ard of cloth. 

Rule 89 is next applied to find cost per yard 
for oversight. 

Example. 

42c. oversight per loom per week ^„„^ 

^j-rp T^ — ~ r — = .2896c. over- 

145 yards per loom per week ^-^^^ ^^^ ^^^ 



110 PRACTICAL COTTON CALCULATIONS 

Rule 90 is next applied to find cost per yard 
for general expense. 

Example. 

$1.80 genl. expense per loom per week 

145 yards per loom per week general 

expense per yard. 

Although the cost per yard for oversight and 
general expense may be found in one problem 
by adding the amount per week for each to- 
gether and dividing by the number of yards per 
week the above method is usually adopted so 
that either one may be referred to again if re- 
quired. 

It is now only necessary to add the various 
costs per yard together. 

Summary of Costs per Yard of Cloth. 

Weaving, 1.724c. 

Yarns, 3.2 

Oversight, .2896 

General Expense, 1.24 

6.4536c. cost per yard. 

The cost per pound of cloth may now be 
found by multiplying the cost per yard by the 
number of yards per pound. 

Example. 6.4536c. cost per yard X 6.02 
yards per pound = 38.85c. cost per pound of 
cloth. 



PRACTICAL COTTON CAJXULATIONS 111 

In a cloth mill where the yarn is bought on 
warp beams and cops or bobbins, the counts and 
price per pound would be required instead of 
Blank No. 2. 

If the yarn is bought in cone or skein form 
the costs entailed during the various processes 
necessary before it reaches the loom must be 
considered. 

There is no extra cost entailed on filling yarn 
from the time it leaves the spinning frame or 
mule to the time that it reaches the weaver, 
beyond the cost of handling it. 

Yarn intended for warp must undergo several 
processes before it can be made into cloth, the 
principal of which are spooling, twisting, if for 
ply yarns, warping, slashing and drawing-in. 




112 INDKX 



INDEX. 



Approximate per cent, of contraction in 

length - - - - - 55 (30 

Average counts of cloth - - - 5:^ 

Average counts of filling in a piece of 

cloth containing 2 or more counts of 

filling -"--.. :is 45 

Average counts of yarn in a set of warps 

containing different counts of yarn 19 >];:! 

Average counts of yarn in the cloth - 46 

Average counts of yarn in a piece of cloth, 

from ends in v\rarp, pick, vi^idth in 

reed and yards per pound - - 39 4(j 

Average counts of yarn in a piece of cloth 

from sley, pick, width and yards per 

pound - - - - - 

Average counts of yarn from sley, pick, 

counts of warp and filling 
Average counts of yarn in a cloth with 

only one counts of warp 
Average counts of yarn in a cloth con- 
taining more than one counts of warp 
Average counts of yarn from per cent. 

warp, i^er cent, filling, and counts of 

warp and filling . _ - 

Average counts of yarn from a small piece 

of cloth ----- 
Average pick when check pegs are used 50, 51 
Average sley from ends in warp and width 

of cloth ----- 48 

Average sley in an unequally reeded 

stripe from sley and warp lay out 49 



40, 41 


47 


42 


48 




49 


4:], 44 


49 


45 


51 


46,47 


52 


50, 51 


54 



113 



Beam yarn and wai'p calculations 
Beam, counts of yarn on a, from length, 

weight and number of ends 
Beam, weight of yarn on a 
Beam, ends on a, from counts, weight and 

length ----- 
Breaking weight of American warp yarns 

Cable varus - - - - - 

Calculations, loom - - - - 

Calculations, reed - - - - 

Calculations, for check peg patterns 
Check pegs to use per pattern 
Change gear to give a certain number of 

picks per inch - - - - 

Cloth, average count of - - 

Cloth, analysis 
Cloth calculations, yarn and 
Cloth contraction and reed calculations 
Cloth contraction in length from warp to 

cloth ----- 
Cloth, yards per pound of - - 

Cloth, ounces per yard of - - 

Cloth production - - - 

Cloth, length of, that can be woven with 

a given weight and counts of filling 
Contraction, percentage of, in length from 

warp to cloth - - - - 

Constants or constant numbers 
Constant to use for any take-up motion 
Cost calculations - - - - 

Cost of filling in a piece of cloth 
Cost of a piece of cloth - - . 

Cost of oversight per yard 
Cost of stock per pound of cloth 
Cost of weaving per yard - - - 



KULE 




NUMBER 


PAGE 




29 


15 


29 


16 


30 


18 


32 




87 




22 




92 




02 




56 


53, 54 


56 


81,82 


92 




53 




67 



66-68 



69 


75 




90 


32 


40 


55 


60 




8 


80 


92 




96 


96 


100 




100 


89 


97 


92 


98 


87 


96 



114 



Cost of yarns per cut - - 

Cost of yarns per pound - - - 

Cost of yarns per yard of cloth 

Cost of yarn in a warp 

Cuts per loom per week - - - 

Counts, length or weight of cotton yarn 

(formula "A") - - - 

Counts, number of hanks or weight 

(formula " B ") 
Counts, length or ends on a beam 

(formula "C") 
Counts, comparing yarns for 
Counts, weighing short lengths of yarn for 
Counts from length and weight - - 1, 

Counts from number of leas and weight 
Counts, systems of numbering yarns of 

various materials for - - - 

Counts, equivalent - - - - 

Counts, equivalent, of any material to a 

given cotton counts - - - 3 20 

Counts, eqiiivalent, of cotton to a given 

counts of other materials - - 21 

Counts of twisted, or ply and cable yarns 22 

Counts of single yarns equal to a ply yarn 

composed of 2 or more single yarns of 

unequal counts - - - 4, 5 23 

Counts of a yarn to twist with a given 

yarn to produce a required ply yarn 
Counts of spun silk ply yarns 
Counts from weight and number of hanks 
Counts of yarn on a beam from length, 

weight and number of ends 
Counts of yarn in a set of warps - 
Counts from the weight of a few inches 

of yarn ----- 
Counts of warp or filling required to give 

a certain number of yards per pound 



KULE 




NUMBER I 


AGE 


93 


98 




108 


94 


99 


95 


99 




92 




2-7 




29 




32 




12 




13 


la, 9 14 


, 27 


2 


14 




20 




20 



6 


24 




26 


13 


28 


15 


29 


19 


33 


28 


38 


34 


41 



115 



(■omits of filling required from sley, pick, 

warp and average counts 7 - 35 43 

Counts of filling required from sley, pick, 

width, warp and yards per pound - S6 44 

Counts of filling required in a cloth con- 
taining 2 different counts of filling 
yarn - - - - - 37 44 

Dents per inch in reed to produce a given 

sley - - 

Dents per inch in reed, table of - 
Dents, number of, occupied by an equally 

reeded warp . . . . 

Diameters of yarns . . _ 

Diameter of driving pulley 
Diameter of loom pulley - - - 

Ends 01' a beam from counts, weight and 

length ----- 
Ends, number of, in an unequally reeded 

warp - - - - 

Ends, number of, in an unequally reeded 

pattern, from sley, width and warp 

lay out - - - - - 24 85 

Equivalent counts - - - - 20 

Equivalent counts in various materials, 

short methods to find - - - 20 

Filling calculations, warp and - - 38 

Filling caleulations - - . 40 
Filling, weight of, per cut from per cent. 

of filling - - - - 29 38 

Filling, required per day, weight of - 30 39 

Filling, hanks of, in a piece of cloth - 31 40 

Filling, per cut, weight of - - - 33 41 
Filling, counts of, required to give a 

certain number of yards per pound 34 41 
Filling, counts of, required from sley, 

pick, warp counts and average counts 35 43 



57 


63 




64 


61 


67 


75, 70 


85 


84 


94 


85 


94 


18 


32 


20 


33 



116 



Filling, counts of, required from sley, 
pick, width, warp counts and yards 
per pound - - - - 36 

Filling, counts of, required in a cloth 
containing two different counts of 
filling yarn - - - - 37 

Filling, average counts of, in a piece of 
cloth containing 2 or more counts of 
filling - - - 

Filling, percentage of 

Filling, cost of, in a piece of cloth 



38 


45 


- 70-73 


78 


96 


100 


certain 




- 81, 82 


92 


90 


97 


91 


97 



14 


29 


21 


34 


22 


34 



Gear, change, to use to give 

number of picks per inch 
General expense per yard - 
General expense per pound 
Glossary of technical words and terms 
Ground picks per inch, from average pick, 

number of teeth used per pattern and 

picks per pattern 

Hanks from weight and counts 
Hanks of warp yarn in a piece of cloth - 
Hanks in a warp . - - _ 

Hanks of filling from pick, width in reed 

and length - - - - 31 40 

Hanks of yarn, warp or filling in 100 yards 

of cloth, table of - - " - 76 

Hank or roving table - - . 14 

Lengths for cotton, table of - - 8 

Length and weight tables - - - 8 
Length or weight or counts of cotton 

yarn (formula "A") - - - 27 
Length counts or number of ends on a 

beam (formula "C") - - - 32 

Length from counts and weight - - 10 27 
Length of yarn on a beam from weight, 

counts and number of ends - - 17 31 



INDEX 117 



Length of yarn on a warp from number of 

hanks and number of ends - - 23 36 

Length of cloth that can be woven with a 

given counts and weight of fllling - 32 40 

Length of warp required for a given 

length of cloth in lenos, lappetts, etc. 56 60 

Loom calculations - - . - 92 

Numbering cotton yarn, table for - 16 

Numbering yarns of various materials, 
systems of - - - - 

Ounces per yard . - - - 

Ounces per yard from a small piece of 

cloth ----- 

Oversight per yard, cost of - - 

Patterns, number of, in an unequally 

reeded cloth - - - . 

Percentage of size on warp yarns - 
Percentage of contraction in length from 

warp to cloth . - - - 55 60 

Percentage of warp or filling in a piece of 

cloth from ends, pick, warp, filling 

and width - - - - 70 78 

Percentage of warp or filling from sley, 

pick, warp and filling counts - - 72 79 

Percentage of warp or filling from weight 

of warps and weight of cut - - 71 78 

Percentage of warp or filling from sley, 

pick, average counts and warp - 73 79 

Per cent, of production of a loom - 77-79 90 

Pick, average, when check pegs are used 50, 51 54 

Picks per inch ground, from average pick, 

number of teeth used and picks per 

pattern - - - - - 52 56 

Ply and cable yarns, counts of twisted or, 22 

Ply yarns, counts of, composed of 2 or 

more single yarns of unequal counts 4, 5 23 





20 


62 


70 


69 


75 


89 


97 


25 


36 


26 


37 



KULE 




NUMBE 


t PAGE 


6 


24 




26 




8$ 


77 


9D 




58, 62 


t57 


65 


60 


66 


57 


6i 




69 




14 



118 



Ply yarn, counts of a yarn to twist with a 

given yarn to produce a required, 
Ply yarns, counts of spun silk. 
Production table _ - . - 

Production of cloth per week 
Reed calculations, cloth contraction and. 
Reed to use for unequally reeded patterns 
Reed, width in, from sley and width of 

cloth ----- 
Keed, dents per inch in, - 
Reed table ----- 
Reeling yarns - - - - 

Short methods to find equivalent counts of 

yarn in woolen, worsted, linen, raw 

silk, to cotton counts - - - 20 21 

Short methods to find cotton counts equiv- 
alent to counts of other materials or 

the metric system - - _ 21 

Sley that would be woven with a reed of 

a given number of dents per inch - t56 65 

Sley, average, from ends and width of 

cloth ----- 48 53, 55 

Sley, average, in an uneqvially reeded 

stripe from sley and warp lay-out 
Spun silk ply yarns. Counts of, 
Speed calculations - - - - 

Speed of shafting . - - - 

Speed of loom - - . - 

Size, per cent of, on warp yarns - 
Square yards in a cut of cloth 
Summary of costs per yard of cloth 
Systems of filling out blank with weave 

room data for a piece of cloth 
Table for numbering cotton yarn - 
Table of dents psr inch in reed 

fRules 56 and 57, page 65, should have been Rules 58 and 59. 



49 


53 




26 




93 


83 


93 


86 


95 


26 


37 


r4a 


80 




110 




102 




16 




60 



119 



Table of weights for textile materials 
Table of length and weight 
Table based on •20ths of an inch and rep- 
resenting the number of dents iu the 

cloth - - - 

Table of production . . - 

Table of hanks of yarn, warp or filling in 

100 yards of cloth 
Technical words and terms, glossary of - 
Twisted or ply and cable yarns, counts of 
Testing yarns for counts by comparison - 
Testing yarns for strength - 
Twists per inch in yarns - - - 

Warp calculations, beam, yarn and 
Warp, length of, from number of hanks 

and number of ends - 
Warp, weight of, in ounces per yard of 

cloth ----- 
Warp and filling calculations 
Warp per cut, weight of, from per cent. 

warp ----- 
Warp required per cut, weight of 
Warp required per day, weight of 
Warp, counts of, from sley, pick, filling 

and average counts - . - 

Warp, length of, required for a given 

length of cloth in lenos, lappetts, etc. 
Warp, percentage of - - - 

Weaving, cost of - 

Weight and length tables - - - 

Weight required of each count for a given 

weiglit of ply yarn - - . 

Weight required of each counts in a group 

of warps when counts, number of 

ends of each and total weight are 

known 
Weight from counts and length - 



35 



88 





76 




5 




22 




12 




86 




81 




29 


23 


35 


27 


37 




38 


29 


38 


33 


41 


30 


39 



43 



56 


60 


70-73 


78 


87-88 


96 




8 





31 


16 


30 


33 


41 




70 



120 



Weight from counts and number of hanks 12 28 

Weight, counts or length of cotton yarn "^ 

(formula ''A") - - - - 27 

Weight counts or number of hanks of 

yarn (formula "B") - - - 29 

Weight counts or number of ends on a 

beam (formula "C") - - - 32 

Weight or number of yards per pound and 

ounces per yard ... 70 

Weight of yarn on a beam from length, 

number of ends and counts - - 16 30 

Weight of warp yarn on beams in the 

looms ----- 
Weight of warp yarn in a piece of cloth 
Weight of filling required per cut 
Weight or yards per pound 
Width in reed from sley and width of 

cloth - - - - - 60 66 

Yards per pound of a cloth containing 

different counts of yarns or patterns 

that are unequally reeded - - 

Yards per pound and ounces per yard 
Yards per pound from sley, pick, width 

and average counts - . - 

Yards per pound from sley, pick, width, 

warp and filling counts 
Yarn, counts of, from any number of 

yards reeled or measured 
Yarn and cloth calculations 
Yarn, counts of, from bobbins or cops 
Yarn, table for numbering cotton 
Yarn, equivalent counts of, from one sys- 
tem to another - - - - 
Yarn, average counts of, in a set of warps 
Yarn, average counts of, in the cloth 
Yarn, average counts of, from ends in 

warp, pick, width in reed and yards 

per pound - - - - 39 



64, 


65 


71 


62, 


63 


70 




66 


73 


67, 


68 


73 


1 


la 


14 

8 




2 


14 
16 




3 


20 




19 


33 

46 



121 



Yarn, average counts of - - - 40, 41 47 

Yarn, average counts of, from sley, pick, 

warp, and tilling - - - 42 48 

Yarn, average counts of, with only one 

counts of warp - - - - 49 

Yarn, average counts of, in a cloth con- 
taining more than one warp counts - 48, 44 49 
Yarn, average counts of, from per cent. 

warp, per cent, filling and counts of 

warp and filling - - - 45 51 

Yarn, average counts of, from a small 

piece of cloth - - - - 

Yarn, weight of, from counts and hanks 
Yarn, counts, length or weight of 

(formula "A") 
Yarn, length of, from counts and weight 
Yarn, weight of from counts and length 
Yarn, counts of, from length and weight 
Yarn, counts of, from weight and hanks 
Yarn and warp calculations, beam 
Yarn on a beam, counts of - - 

Yarn on a beam, weight of - - 

Yarn on a beam, length of - - 

Yarn, counts of, from weight of a fcAV 

inches ----- 

Y'arns, cost of, per yard and per cut 
Yai-ns, cost of, in a warp - - - 

Yarns, diameters of . _ . 

Yarns, reeling . . . - 

Yarns, testing, for strength 
Yarns, testing, for counts by comparison 
Yarns, testing, for counts by weighing 

short lengths - - - - 

Y'arns, twists per inch in - 
Yarns of various materials, systems of 

numbering - - _ _ 20 



46, 47 


52 


12 


28 




28 


10 


27 


11 


27 


9 


27 


13 


28 




29 


15 


29 


16 


30 


17 


31 


28 


38 


03, 94 


98 


95 


99 




85 




14 




86 




12 




13 




81 



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Railroad, Telegraph, name of Proprietor or Offlceis. Capital, Ageiit 
and Superintendent, Number of Cards, Comhs, Looms. S. indies. 
Knitting and Sewing Machines. A list of all New Mills under 
construction. 

Price, Express paid, Office Edition, $3.00. Pocicet Edition, $2.50 

Davison publishing Co., 401 Broadway, New York. 

NATIONAL . . . 
RING TRAVELER 
COMPANY . . . 

. . . PROVIDENCE, R. I. 

FOWLER LOOM HARNESS CO., 



MANUKACTUKERS OF 



LOOM HARi^BSS, 

FINE WORK A SPECIALTY, Telephone Connection- 

Factory, 123 Smith St., New Bedford, Mass. 

CLING-SURFACE ^JZ%u.m^o 

Allows them to run easy, increases power at least 
15 iier cent, and preserves tlie belts. Kesuits 
guaranteed. 

CLING = SURFACE MFG. CO.. 

146=152 Virginia Street, BUFFALO, N. Y. 

NEW YORK BOSTON, PHILADELPHIA. 



MBMORANpA 



MEMORANDA 



MEMORANDA 



MteMORANbA 



MEMORANDA 



MEMORANDA 



MEMORANDA 



b 



MEMORANDA 



Feb. 2 5, 



1902. 



FEB 25 1902 

1 COPY DEL. TO CAT. OIV. 
fEB. 25 1902 

MAR. 5 1902 



